No fuse block and the starter and ign sw etc is not protected anyway so something else is going on. Make sure to check battery cables and battery itself as well as their respective connections and terminals. Symptoms almost sound as if the battery or a cable terminal gave up and if either is old or dirty worth checking. Almost all electric feeds in the car except starter load goes thru the ammeter and those have been known to fail or connections loosen.

You can download the wiring diagram and owners manual from the literature archive. The owners manual has the fuse rating and a general location of where to look for the fuse.

Almost all lights are protected by self resetting circuit breakers mounted on the headlight switch or another is on the back of the instrument cluster. There are a few inline fuses for optional accessories such as the directional signals, clock, radio, heater, overdrive and Electromatic clutch but those are located in different spots and not concentrated in a fuse block.

Note that Packard used mostly SFE fuses and the physical length and sometimes diameter of the fuse is specific to amp rating. The fuse holders are sized for the fuses called for so modern fuses for the most part will not fit in the old holders. Napa usually has a good selection of SFE fuses.

Hello, had shifting issues with my ‘49 std 8 were the tube in the tube had rusted up. PB Blast was able to penetrate the corrosion freeing up the tubes rusted together.

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Hi folks, me again, 🤣
No seriously, were is the fuse bloc located I think I have a blown fuse, the car cut off on the road, starter was able to turn over a few times but the engine didn’t fire up, then it wouldn’t do any more, then I noticed the gages weren’t working, seems a fuse went or an interlock switch is stuck. Going to get the volt meter out and see if I can check continuity across the starter solenoid and a switch on the OD and reverse switches. Wanted to take it out after a wash job, to show it off but was disappointed. No power in circuit being “made”when the key is on.
😞
Check out the Packard Merlin engine wearing this mustang!

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To trailer or not to trailer is a hard one to answer. The answer lies in the: 1) distance, 2) your aversion to new life experiences, 3) Auto Club (or similar towing service), 4) condition of the car (running condition, tires, etc.), 5) availability or truck/trailer. And of course funds available if Gods decide to crap on you.

The best answer probably hinges one #s 1, 2, 3, & 4. Unless of course there is a significant other who is along for the experience. Then listen to them.

All of the above is a LOL. Need more info before processing.

I have a friend who drove 400 miles to buy a classic Cad and saw a drop dead 55 Buick and drove it home without a problem (car was a National Buick Club winner). Another friend who went to pick up a vintage trailer with his truck who I rescued with my truck when his broke down (P.S. All his friends knew he wouldn't make the 900 mile trip in his PU. This was a funny "Life Experience that consumed 16 hours of my time.

When all else fails just flip a coin.

AND OF COURSE - is it safe to drive!!!

Not sure how remote you are as it relates to gas station options but there are a few sites and apps that you can use to check for ethanol free. I only mention it because I live in a blended area of "country" and small towns and while not a ton of ethanol free places, there are more than I thought and ones I would not have considered checking that I discovered that way.

Thanks for the feedback, all good points, examples and suggestions. I can see the car spec info being more apt for AACA type events so I just need to figure out my level of investment for each.

Thanks, i just blew a fuse i think on a drive when the car cut off, went dead, gages not powered up, starter not turning, dissapointing to say the least.🤨

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Not really. The current flow is determined by the total impedance; having one cable be smaller increases the total impedance of the circuit but not as much as both being smaller.

Honestly at this point, if you're buying a car where the fuel system was rebuilt long enough ago that they didn't use ethanol friendly stuff, it's probably old enough that it's worth doing again anyway.

Hello, all. I found a place near me that has contacts with a shop in California that water-cut locking plates for my '37 and they fit perfectly. The place near me is Brown Welding and Machine in Bells, TX, which is about 10 miles from me. I gave him one of the old ones to copy. You can do a Google search and find him. So, if you need locking plates, either send Mr. Brown a plate for him to scan or a scan of your own with the specifications. I paid $65 for a dozen plates. Good luck and happy Packarding!