There are many threads on this. Here's one that has references to other threads:

Thread on Radio Repair

If there is someone who repairs vintage stereos in your neighborhood, you can probably get them to work on it, if you provide them a 6V power supply, which can be bought for cheap off of Amazon or what-have-you, and the schematic, which is also available (lists of where in the thread). Info on the thread about that. Better and cheaper than shipping your radio. The tubes are all available in most cases, the capacitors can (and generally should be) replaced by modern equivalents.

Here is another list:

Southern California Vintage Radio Society

Does anyone do restoration of pre-war 6volt car radios or conversion to a modern am/fm? I have a 1940 Packard 180 the radio has not worked in it probably for many years.

Nice pic of a nice Packard.

Beautiful job. Maybe paint the alternator black? Thanks for sharing.

I got the word that Ron, who is going to do the woodgraining, is ready for the parts.

So I'll be pulling the dash panels and door moldings back off the car to send to him. He will glass bead them and clean them up as needed before he starts the woodgraining process.

Also, I ordered a couple of headlight junction blocks that are similar to what was used on the '54. I really wanted something that makes disconnecting the front-end electrical quick and easy, as I can imagine I will have all of it apart many times over the life of this project. I'll mount those to the inner fenders.

The horns on this car are tucked up the front frame corners. So completely hidden. I'm pretty sure they are from 55/56. I only found them when I initially removed the front bumper, and the horns were obscuring access to the bolts.

It was an excellent solution to where to put them, and I am sure Mark did that as mounting them in the original location was not really an option with the Jag motor.

They are totally invisible where they are located unless you get underneath the car.

I can also use that junction block to tie the horns together as well. This hopefully gives me a place to tie in front turn signals in the future.

Looks like it's all coming together! And you are far more organized than I am.

There are two nuts, one at each far lower corner on the back side of the dash on 1940 dashes. Plus the screws under the windows, plus any obvious screws holding the shell to the understructure along the bottom edge.

To pull the dash all the way out, you have to release the hand throttle from the holding screw on the firewall engine compartment.

One window wanted to fall out when I removed the dash. It stayed in place when I removed the surround, but moved in when I removed the dash shell.

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More dash project pix

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Here are some pix of my dash project. A narrative will follow in a couple days.

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D-
I had some electrical and cosmetic problems, so I decided to remove my dash completely from The Duchess, my 1940 160. I will post some pix on "The Duchess Project" blog here, but I haven't quite finished. The dash is still out of the car, but pre-assembled,
I also recreated the '40 wiring diagram so that it can be scaled up to any size without losing resolution in both an original version and a modified version using relays and fused distribution blocks. I want to write a narrative, but I only have time to post pix this morning.