The play is at top and bottom. I can see the spindle movement so it's not wheel bearings.

I guess I'll have to find a reamer tool. That's one item I don't yet have.

My 1948 Custom has some kingpin play in the left front wheel. There doesn't appear to be abnormal tire wear, but the play can be felt and seen with the wheel pressured side to side top and bottom while off the ground. I assume the pins/bushings need replacement. Any tips? What special tools are required?

Quote:

The plugs are 10mm non-resistor and the spark plug wires are supposed to be reproduction original so I assume they are non-resistor, but I'd have to see if I can positively ID them. It all seems to be working fine.

Earlier this year I installed the Pertronix electronic ignition in my '48 Custom and it's working just fine so far. With it I also installed the accompanying coil they sell. In black it looks stock. There are no R9 overdrive issues that I am aware of. All seems well. The wiring differences are noted earlier. It does all look stock except for the wire exiting the distributor (instead of the terminal).

Anyone have any tips on replacing the wind contacts on the clock from a 22nd series? Mine are burnt to a crisp. Nothing left to file.

This is a basic question but I thought I'd ask before I messed them up.

I ordered some under hood decals from Max Merritt, e.g., HD air filter, breather, & oil filter, for my 23rd series. How are they applied? Do they need to be soaked in water to remove them from the paper backing?

Also, any guidance on precise positioning of these three decals?

Any tips for removing the heater core on a '48? I'm getting windshield moisture and suspect a leak.
Is it easier to remove the entire box first or to remove all the screws for the cover? If the latter, does the blower have to be removed first?

I found the right combination. The header pipe does fit through the frame from the rear despite the large flange. The steering idler arm has to be disconnected from the frame and dropped down out of the way. That provides just enough clearance, barely, to snake the pipe into position.


Now to reinstall the manifold. Any tips to ensure a good long-term seal?

I believe they are referring to the aft freeze plug, which is necessary to drain all the fluid if the engine is to be left without any fluid that may freeze, e.g., long term storage.

To just change fluid, drain the radiator and flush the system with a flush kit that attaches a garden hose to your heater hose. Then drain and refill with coolant, either premix or concentrate diluted with distilled water.

You don't want to mess with the freeze plug.

I had to cut the old header pipe out, which wasn't original. What was in there was smaller diameter (same as the aft exhaust pipe with a non-stock muffler) and had been installed in two pieces rather than one. Even though it was smaller diameter I couldn't remove it without cutting it ahead of the frame. I do have the manifolds off to replace the gaskets (exhaust leaks prompted this little project), but that doesn't seem to help.

BTW, the manifold gaskets that were there were the flat sheet type and what I am going to install are the individual circular ring type. Any tips? I'm assuming the ring type are original on the 356ci and the flat ones were aftermarket. Is that correct?