Good news on the progress. Have a look at these 4 service counselors. Each has an article on some aspect that might have something to do with your findings or answer a question. There is one on the second speed engagement but don't know if conditions are applicable in yours. One of your symptoms almost sounds as if the governor is dropping out at wrong speed but a snippet in another article on electromatic cautions against trying to adjust it in field. Believe all are available on site for download.
1941 Vol 15-5
1943 Vol 17-17
1944 Vol 18-3
1947 Vol 21-14

John,
A 'slick' installation of a solid switch.

I use a disconnect nob on the neg ground post of my Clipper. It is not close to 'slick' or convenient.
I undo the nob. Pull the cable away. Then tuck it down against the side of the battery.
It is a 'solid disconnect' but takes longer and risks 'battery acid' (anhydrite) contact.

(My wife refers to all my pants with acid holes as 'Packard Pants.')
DanL

Partial Success!

Installed the Solenoid last night. Grounded the governor and the solenoid to engage the pawl. Once in I could feel resistance to pulling the solenoid, so I assumed this is properly engaged.
Hooked everything up and again grounded the solenoid to confirm no "machine gunning" or other unwanted noises.

A Short Test Drive:
At about 25MPH, the indicator light comes on and the OD engages upon releasing the pedal. Indicator light goes out and OD is operational!

Not quite there:
I still have the issue of the buzzing noise at the point at which the OD light comes on and until the OD shift is completed. It is very quite and really hard to tell if it is mechanical or electric. I am hoping it is electric. I noted two other issues: (1) I hear the OD disengage as I slow down, but I must be almost at a stop. Slowing down to even 5 MPH does not actuate the ground-out circuit. (2) generally I am in first when the OD engagement is indicated. One time while in second, upon reaching the engagement speed, the indicator light came on and backing the throttle DID NOT engage the OD and, of course, the light remained on. The shift did occur after a couple more attempts and all was good. This also occurred a few weeks ago, just before the OD died, but the shift would not complete at all. Does the shift generally take longer in second gear?

I assume the noise in am looking for can come from a few places: On achieving engagement speed, the points in the governor close, the actuating contacts in the relay close and terminal 4 gets power, which powers the pull in winding and the indicator light. I guess the governor points could be making poor contact, but I don't think I would hear a buzzing noise from that (?). Outside the car, the solenoid made no unusual noises, but I do wonder if restricting the travel of the plunger, which I think is what happens while the solenoid is pushing on the pawl being held by the balk ring, could cause this noise to come from the solenoid. However, it does NOT happen with the solenoid in place, the car stationary and the governor grounded. It seems like electrically this should be the same situation.

At the time the governor closes the circuit, the ground out contacts in the second relay open, which results in power to terminal 6. It is these contacts that I have previously noted were closed upon pulling the relay (no power to it at all). I am wondering if these points could be the source of the noise. If they do not open when required, would this ground-out terminal 6 and set up the machine gunning noise? Or, can these points themselves be somehow buzzing as they try to open but fail?

Is there a way to test these components (or by-pass them) while driving?

If the noise is not electrical, then only the mechanics is left. When the solenoid pushes on the pawl, and the pawl pushes on the balk ring, waiting for it to line up, what exactly does the balk ring ride on? Can this action force it to contact the Sun gear, so that I am hearing that contact and it is the source of the buzzing noise as the teeth engage the balk ring? That seems like the only mechanical possibility. Once the shift is made, there are no unusual noises and everything feels fine.

Oz,

Just SAW your picture label '41 Diesel'

MORE
We could dust your 41 for Clessie Cummins' fingerprints!
(oily fingerprints)

I once had a 51 chevy that used (leaked) oil. It consumed 1 quart oil every 300 miles. So I kept a gallon of 'reclaimed' oil in the trunk (non-detergent). The engine held 6 qts, so i considered it an "automatic-continuous-oil-change" every 1800 miles. Drove it through 3 years os college.

I later had a 1980 Chevy "gas-converted-diesel." That's a whole new forum however. (I should have named it 'Clessie'.

DanL

Thanks guy's for all the haet riser valve pictures. It now makes sense on how I must fit it, I had the cover on upside down.

nice post, lovely cars

Sorry, know it's waaaaaay but I couldn't resist. My '41 is consuming a lot of oil, so maybe it's a diesel?

Attach file:

---

  (36.51 KB)

Wednesday 2nd September 2009

No road trip today as Wade was anxiously awaiting his "comfort parcel" from Barry Smith. With work on Old Blue stymied until the manifold gaskets arrived I said to Wade I'd paint the hardware for the '41's running boards so all would be ready to re-fit them once they returned from re-covering. And speaking of which, before making the return journey from Mooney Mooney yesterday, I'd phoned Peter at Rhino Linings because they were on the way home only to learn they weren't ready yet! Anyway, while I was wiring up parts and fasteners in preparation for POR-15'ing, Wade went up to Aldus Engineering for the re-surfaced manifold. With the manifold mission accomplished, but still no gaskets, Wade turned to the '34. Dug out the fittings which anchor the door straps only to find they hadn't been painted. So as I POR-15'd, Wade was cleaning and stringing parts for the '34 and, wouldn't you know it, he kept finding more and more! Not a problem because now was the time. Painting all finished, and lo and behold, the "comfort parcel" from Barry Smith arrived containing the manifold gaskets as well as a fridge magnet for Wade from Barry's wife Cheryl, see pic. At this point I had to depart the workshop but tomorrow will be back, and knowing Wade, Old Blue will probably be back on the road. And Terry, the reason I didn't have a pic of the spring cover on the '34 hot-box emerged. Wade had been meaning to re-paint it but seeing it had been put aside it kept getting overlooked, but not this time. So I've included pic's of the '34's cover and spring as well as some of Big Red's oil cooler internals.

Attach file:

---

  (22.17 KB)


  (19.24 KB)


  (44.02 KB)


  (26.67 KB)


  (18.85 KB)


  (24.14 KB)


  (26.25 KB)


  (40.26 KB)


  (26.69 KB)


  (20.83 KB)


  (29.81 KB)


  (32.99 KB)


  (25.41 KB)


  (30.20 KB)


  (27.45 KB)


  (12.92 KB)

The 'A' between 2262 and 32674 is the paint code, Lowell Gray Metallic. The last number '66' is the trim code, gray blue broadcloth with gray and blue stripe.

It looks to me like you have a cast water outlet from a 356 engine which would explain the lack of a wire thermostat retainer. The 356 uses the sleeve type retainer similar to the one you fabricated.