Sounds like the classic clogged fuel filter/clogged fuel line that lets just a little by as it sits a minute.

Was just reading an article about Ford flatheads and the fellow said that with the bypass filter all of the oil was filtered every five minutes or so at road speed. I expect Packard will be somewhat similar--in other words the engine is pretty well protected unless it has started throwing chunks. Even then, the floating pickup helps keep them at bay.

The next oil change on the thousanddollarwonder I will check to see how long it takes for the filter to pass a quart and report back.

Here is a shot of what I often do around the pockets on the flatties--basically a smoothing of the edges in the direction of the cylinder, and a fairly rough cleanup of the biggest bumps and stalagtites in the ports. Seems to make a nice difference.

About those siamesed ports. If you work through the firing order of the L8, each siamesed port ends up drawing for almost a revolution of the crank followed another revolution before they draw again. Don't know how those carbs would react to that irregular pulsation.

We need a carb wizard to bring some wisdom here

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Don't know how to do the link, but there is a 54 Hudson Hollywood on ebait right now with a very interesting engine. There are a couple of nice photos of the relieving work around the valve pockets and also of a quite sanitary multi carb and header system.

Does anyone recognize those carbs? It would be ever so much fun to do up a 359 or 327 with similar mods.

My condolences on a loss that will hit you often over time. But I echo what Steve said--you were brought up right.

Rik, suggest you spend some time with your trans and with the hydraulic diagrams and figure out how different pressures get where they need to go. Many times the bushings are necessary to get oil under pressure where it needs to go.

For example, the torque convertor is filled (and pressurized) through the groove in the center of the bell housing bushing. If you replace that with a needle bearing, you will need a whole new path to fill the convertor.

Good question. The substance of choice is probably carburetor cleaner as its about the only thing that will cut the gum from the bad gas. I recommend Berkebile, which most parts stores carry. Lay a mess of rags in the bottom of the valve chambers so you don't wash all the crap down into your crankcase.

I'd spray cleaner up the valve stem as best possible and let it sit a while. Then I would pry the valve down if it will come, and wash its stem with some more cleaner. Pry it back up and do it again til it will fall from its own spring tension. This may take several attempts as the area with the gum is far above where you are working.

If you can't get any joy this way, you will have to take the manifolds off and do your spraying through the ports so the cleaner can get on the upper part of the valve stem. Taking the head off is actually the last resort.

When you do get it running again, I think a couple of cans of two-stroke oil in the new, fresh gas might help get everything well loosened up.

Those cars can be prone to saggy front engine mounts but usually there is still clearance enough. You will need to remove the lower bellhousing for clearance, and as you extract the pan towards the rear you may have to turn the engine a bit to get the front crank counterweights up out of the way.

You may be stunned what all you find inside. Be sure to pry the cover off of the pickup screen and have a look. Also the two compression fittings on the pickup tube will almost certainly want snugging.

You have gotten yourself a car that is easy to work on, and very comfortable and enjoyable to drive. Especially with the overdrive it will keep up with traffic easily. Its already much more solid than what we find here along the east coast.

Just recently we have had two fellows here on the forum who have had troubles with valves sticking caused by running an engine on old gas. Do yourself a big favor and resist the temptation to try and nurse that thing to life with anything that might be in the tank.

I have two essentially similar cars on the road and never get tired of driving them.

Thanks for info Tim. As these things wear, thicker is better up to a point.

As you know, the most common (first)complaint with with these things is a weak direct clutch. In my experience this is most often due to excess clearance between the input shaft and the front pump bushing. A little thicker oil by means of chemistry or by just keeping it cooler will make a dodgy trans good for quite a while.

I agree, the Lucas is just a thick oil with perhaps a dose of friction modifiers; that being said, it has granted a reprieve to several transmissions I've tried it on. It will however not raise the dead!