Packard Forum Index » General

I understand. This finish is not (or does not look like) a flat black paint and can best be described as a sort of matte black or a sort of a chocolate bar color though poss the slight brown tint is fron a shallac over coat similar to what is in the cloth wires in it. And there is virtually no rust or corrosion on it.

I bought a new lid from McVee and it came with the gasket. My lid was so rusted that when I tried to glass bead it clean, the media blaster blew holes through it.

I takes a patient hand to rivet all the metal and plastic parts together without damaging things.

1. Like Kev, I got my rebuild kit from McVeys.

2. I have 4 old units on the shelf, all removed from Packards. The lid finish appears to be a silvery paint, more of a zinc color than aluminum, oversprayed with clear gloss.

3. Someone earlier said Doubt any judges would go to the length of unscrewing the washer lid to verify but I suppose you never know if judging was so close it had to get down to that nitpicky. I don't believe any of the collector car clubs allow disassembly of any part for the purposes of judging. Many years ago CCCA judging did have the owner remove the radiator cap to check the cleanliness of the tank and coolant, but no longer.

Thanks Owen. Starting to clean up 1 small area. It is 100% a glossy Bl (chocolate bar brown /black) thin factory coating which is unmistakeably obvious is not a respray of any kind which will surely be proven to continue under the riveted solenoid and vac valve as there are surely no masking marks or witness marks anywhere and the thickness of the coating is very telling. What year vehicles are yours from? 55 only poss? I know it may be trivial to some but If Troy, or anyone else with a totally orig 55 will unscrew the lid from his he may examine and confirm the same in the comfort of warmth. No need to be subjected to the cold for this one. lol

I restored my MagNuMaticHydrostatic pump which looks just like the pictures on this thread.

1954 Cavalier

So here is what I know.

The McVee kit appears to be the only source for the parts that I could find. It had all the rubber parts. The two old seals on the pump plunger were my biggest problem as the rubber was petrified.

The new seals work perfect. Be careful when you remove the old rubber seals.

The pump body is Bakelite which is brittle so handle it carefully.

The rubber valves in my pump, and the Co-Ordinator valve worked so I didn't drill out or remove those parts. The cardboard gasket in the lid seems to be OK in my pump so I left it alone.

If I had been more careful I could have saved the little disk valve on the bottom under the solenoid but the replacement works fine.

Understanding how the pump works in action helped me understand this thing better.

So here goes . . . . You momentarily push the button in the center of the wiper control knob. This activates the solenoid which opens a valve to admit vacuum into the pump.

Vacuum in the pump chamber holds the solenoid valve open until the small spring on the plunger resets the valve cutting off the vacuum. This is when the piston hits the top of the stroke.

The big spring inside the plunger causes the plunger to return to the bottom and pump the water that was pulled into the pump chamber to the nozzles through the coordinator valve. The hose from the bottom of the pump is the pump discharge. This water flow moves the coordinator valve which admits vacuum into the coordinator cylinder which starts the wiper motor.

So a single brief push of the button sprays a good amount of water on the windshield and operates the wipers long enough to clean the windshield without turning the knob.

My car had the complete pump under the hood (for show) and remnants of the rubber tubing under the dash.

The instruction on this Forum was of great aid in the restoration of my pump. I use the washer all the time and in fact plan to dry it out before the temperature in Phoenix AZ gets close to freezing, noting Nobody sells washer fluid that won't freeze in Phoenix.

I assume the glass jar I have and the pump was original to the car. I had to get the proper wiper motor from WiperMan and found a workable coordinator on eBay. There is a decal on the pump lid which I believe is available reproduction. As I recall the red solenoid is 12 volt and the brown/black is 6 volt.

Jim

Thanks Jim. Yes I like to understand and replicate operation of all components in normal operation before dismantelins and had understood the solenoid and lower pump operation as well as the coordinator on the vac wiper through a previous thread with Howards help. The only thing in question was the Vacuum control valve to apply the vac to the coordinator. With your help and Howards and Kevs pics I see now that that valve opens to send vac thru when the "blast" of fluid is ejected from the pump and that pressure overcomes the internal spring press. This is where my issue is along with the spring corrosion. I was hoping to avoid dismanteling an orig unit but there may be no choice. A strong pump spring is a requirement and I will get the one from McVeys.

So The way I understand -yours works with 1 pulse of the wash button?
the pump does not cycle but delivers strong spray and volume with basically one cycle of the plunger? Spring ordered. I have a few tricks to try before i order the kit. It may not be needed.

Attach file:

---

  (103.49 KB)

Well I tried to upload a short video clip of testing a coordinator which might help others but it wont take. Its only 20 sec but poss my connection too slow and time out or do you have to record a clip in low res to compress? Troy had a clip of 59 sec posted. how do I do this? Any advice?

post to youtube. Then click on Share just below where it says Channel settings below the video. Then click on Embed,and you will see a long string text giving frame width and Hight. Copy the entire link and past it here where you type and hit submit, the video will appear.

Attach file:

---

  (102.40 KB)

Gotcha-very good, thanks Troy.