Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I see there now are some high temperature metal repair items hitting the automotive consumer shelves, but I have no knowledge if they're are suitable to do this repair, i.e tap again. They can withstand manifold temperatures(not JB weld) a bit pricey but cheaper than a manifold.
It's human nature and therefore a hard habit to break to end up with a problem and seek professional help, instead of getting help before the situation is made worse.
If I had this situation brought to me, since there's alot of the base left and only the "ear" or corner broke off, I'd probably clamp, glue, or tack (MIG) weld the ear back on, drill out the threads the same size as the bolt. Cut the head off a zinc plated bolt at the right length, insert in the hole, and braze or silver solder the bolt and the ear to the casting to act as a stud. But maybe beyond the skills here.
I don't find much trouble using 'easy outs" if you're patient and make sure the remaining stub is free to turn. It much better to avoid the use fo them through careful work. Alot of the tools being sold today are unfit for use and lead to these problems.
Sometimes when bolts shear off, the top thread get distorted making it harder to turn. A little grinding, chiseling, and/or penetrating oil first. Another method for a flush break is to take a cutoff wheel, like a dremel, cut a cross knotch in the stub and use a screw driver same size as the stud.
I've had to completely drill out and remove the remaining threads carefully in the real tough cases, not much exposure and below surface, were I wanted to save the part and threads such as a motor shaft but you have to be able to drill very straight into metal.(what a machinist would probably do with a lathe but by hand.) New drill bit of high quality, etc. It's difficult to get good drill bits these days as well.

Gentleman, thank you all for the tips. The cracks only go less than half the depth of the threads, so I just put it back together with a stud. I used a copper gasket between the two manifolds and coated everything with copper gasket spray. I figure if it fails, it will have minimal impact (minor exhaust leak, and only when the exhaust is being deflected to the intake manifold - i.e. the heat control valve hasn't opened yet. Please correct me if I'm overlooking something.). At that point I can explore other repair options, although I wish I would have thought about brazing/silver soldering the stud, or read that post earlier!

I finished getting the engine back together today, and have a new concern - my oil pressure gauge is PEGGED at idle, 80+ psi.

As a reminder, I removed, disassembled, and cleaned the oil pump, and found that the drive gear pin was in pieces. So that was replaced, and the oil pump reassembled and reinstalled. I used Lucas in the oil pump before installation, to prime it. Filled the engine with 15-40 Rotella T.

Ambient temperature is 34F, but even after running for about 5 minutes the oil pressure didn't drop any. I didn't want to run it for any longer for fear of damage.

What did I do wrong this time?!?

I'd check the pressure relief valve. Dirty ones have stuck and caused the high pressure. Also, with the work in the area, make sure some debris didn't find it's way to the valve and jam it.

Thanks for a quick response as always, Howard. Now that I've calmed down and stepped back to take a look, I think I may have installed the oil pump base plate on backwards...is this possible? My relieve valve points in the opposite direction from the diagrams in the parts list. Is it possible to install it backwards?

Honestly, I've never examined one that closely to see if there are locators or offset bolts to prevent problems. Apparently there is not if you are able to install in any orientation other than the valve forward and down and have things bolt up. I can see where something 180 out would block the internal ports and cause issues.

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I suppose we've figured it out then:

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Problem resolved:

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pictures are good. I'm taking a zillion pix as I go on my car, sometimes I don't even know what I'm looking at yet but maybe it'll help later, like this. plus you can ask the experts here!

Yup, I'm afraid I don't take enough pictures. It's a hard habit to establish - to simply slow down and take a picture periodically. Regarding pictures, I saw this one the other day and immediately thought of the quote in your signature line:

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I previously reported I had significant front-end issues to address, after experiencing wild handling at speeds over about 30 mph. So today I checked the oil in the shocks, and added (estimating here) a little less than an ounce in the driver's side shock, and about THREE ounces to the passenger side. WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Amazing how much better the car handles and rides, and even how much better the brakes feel. I still don't have the car registered, so my test drives were limited to the neighborhood, but I took the car up to about 40 mph for a lil stretch and it felt nice.

The engine and transmission felt nice as well, and I think I'm close to having a legitimate "driver", which is very exciting. WOOT!