Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I'm often amazed at how many people fail to include checking the hydraulic oil in the knee-action shocks as part of routine vehicle care. Keep an eye on them, if you see significant leaks or seepage you'll be in for quite a job to remove and have them rebuilt, and quite expensive to boot. But they are essential to good road manners.

Thanks OD, I assure you mine will remain topped off from now on!

On another note - a question that's been bothering me, but I've been embarrassed to ask. What keeps the starter from engaging at WOT? or was it just assumed that a gentleman driving a Packard would never require WOT?

Apologies for butting in if the switch question was addressed to O_D but just happen to have this "how it works" clipping from an old Motors Manual at the ready.

With respect to the WOT, they must have found out early on that some drivers -- Packard or otherwise -- are not gentlemen.

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Howard, absolutely not butting in! I apologize if I mislead, but as a general rule I am greatful for any and all input! Thank you for the file!

Howard, thank you so much for posting that article! Having read it, I now have insight into an issue I've been having. Apparently, I need some shims.

On my car, the starter only engages when the pedal is depressed to the floor. I thought this was by design. I actually had to adjust the linkage to get the starter to engage. This adjustment left me with not enough "return" - the linkage would not pull the carb all the way back to idle. I thought this was just due to wear in the linkage joints, and was contemplating adding a return spring.

Simultaneously, I noted that recently I have had to put my hand over the carb throat to get it to start, as the arm on the carb linkage lifts the choke butterfly "too early". Of course, if the start switch operated as described in this article, I would not have this issue, either.

So to make a long story short, I'm very excited to discover a simple fix to two issues I've been having!

Thank you Howard, and thank you Packardinfo.com!!!

Glad you were able to use the info. Don't remember what the shims look like so hopefully you will be able to make or find something that works.

No idea how critical the lack of a gauge will be and expect a real one will be all but impossible to find. Perhaps something can be rigged up with a protractor and some stiff wire to duplicate the tool or at least get the adjustments in the range they want.

It looks like I need to add another where the three are in this picture. Tomorrow I'll see if I have a small washer on hand, that I can cut a slit in, to slip in to place.

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Howard, is that Carter info posted somewhere in the Literature and Manuals section here on the site? That is a real "good to know" piece.

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I don't know if BigKev added it or not. It has been posted in the general forum several times when people have asked questions it could answer.

Yeah, thanks HH for the carter piece. My switch was bypassed when I got it, so when it didn't work starting up, I bypassed it again. Couldn't find any info at the time how it worked/repair.
Looks like the final drive yesterday before tear down. I adjusted the carb some more, it's been a bit rich, and it was running pretty good but has the lifter noise and a slight lag, which is probably those lifters hanging and maybe the accelerator pump isn't quite right after rebuild.
One smooth running motor. Proud of the old fastback. It'll turn my junk yard instaleak fix tires without much effort. But I'm going for mo-power. I almost bought another '49 (GM) fastback vehicle, but thank god they sold it before I got there. I don't know what I'd do with 2 projects but I'd have a enviable man cave.
Slowride - u can always ask a question here before you get into trouble. I don't watch this everyday allday like some, but you can email me and others, also. I'm not the best but been around a while have the engr background different view. Glad you didn't go for the full weld fix, you might've been in remorse. I did see a place in MN or WI listed that does concourse grade repairs to cast. In repairs, try ones that are reversible and not the riskiest ones. You can still fix yours later. I never did get if it was the intake or exhaust. If the intake leaks, it's run rough, and if the exhaust leaks, you'll see or hear it.