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3-30-16

Went to the store and got lucky they had 1154 bulbs in stock. Came home and put the new bulb in. I examined the "bad" bulb closely and saw something I missed. Faintly I could read a 57 on it. I bet it is a 1157 which is 12v! That would explain the fits it was giving me.

I rewired the right parking light so that it ran off the shorter filament (even though it is wrong) matching the left side.

Tried the turn signals and SUCCESS!! I have working turn signals in both directions. All bulbs burn nice and bright and the flasher clicks when activated. I'm so happy! I have never gotten to the point of having properly working turn signals.

Even though the parking lights are running off the wrong filaments, it might be to my benefit having such bright turn signals. I figure I will never need to use parking lights because if it is dark I would just turn the headlights on. Not having the parking lights be able to work with the headlights makes them pretty useless in my opinion. I guess I could turn them on while driving at dusk for some visibility for oncoming traffic.

Congratulations! As far as it being on the right or wrong filament it is whatever works. If the heater in the stock type flasher wasn't happy then it wouldn't have worked. The filaments may be of different materials or characteristics and vary in looks from mfg to mfg. The bulb is rated at 3 and 21 cp so there should be a significant briteness difference between park and turn. As long as it is nice and visible that is all that matters.

Quote:

I think you have the bulbs oriented correctly. Front turn signals should be on the brighter element. Same for rear lights: brake and turn signals brighter than tail lights. This allows for turn signals and brake lights to be seen when parking and tail lights are on.

(o{}o)

Parking lights are always the dimmer of the two elements. Turn signals and brakes are are the brighter of the two. Usually brakes and signals are the same element, unless the car uses multiple bulbs on each side.

Thanks guys...I checked the lights in the dark last night and it seemed right to me. Now on to figuring out how in the heck I messed up the harness where the turn signal indicator and high beam indicator on the dash do not light up! Luckily I used the correct color wires so tracing where they go should be pretty easy. If the wires are correct I'll have to check the ground for the sockets.

The sockets ground through the housing for the dash cluster, same as the normal cluster lights.

Some 6 volt dual filament bulbs were not "keyed" in the socket were they. Also didn't they also make a 32/4 cp 6 volt bulbs?
John

4-4-16

John, the bulbs have two pins that are not parallel so there is only one way to put it in the socket. I believe the mistake I made was when I made the harness, I put the wrong color wire on the wrong post.

I have the turn signal indicator working again. Even though the socket was in so tight that I had to use pliers to get it out, I still needed to scuff up the back of the instrument panel to get a good ground. I thought it was fixed, but once I put the instrument panel back in, the bulb stopped working! Out the panel came again and I wiggled the wire. Sure enough it worked again. I guess the thinner insulation on the wire lets it wiggle too much. I wrapped it in place with some electrical tape. Not the kind of repair I like to make, but it seems to have worked.

I checked the high beam indicator that also was not working. Verified the bulb worked, but no power going to it when the switch was stomped. I'm blaming the switch and will buy a new one since you can still get them.

Also found a dim area on the instrument panel lights that turns out to be a bad bulb (verified by trying it directly hooked up to the battery). I'll have to order some. I'm sure they are not in stock anywhere.

4-19-16

Collector plates arrived yesterday! Got my insurance quote into Hagerty. Looks like I will hopefully be driving around town this season!

Congrats, that has to be the best part when it can hit the road.
John