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At this point, or maybe i've missed something along the way, what is not clear to me yet is whether or not this paricular overdrive unit is KNOWN to be operational in terms of engaged operation AND DISengaged operation regardless of the method used to engage or disengage it.

Let me put it another way:
Has the car been operated with OD DISengaged as well as enaged and operated in a satisfactory manner for engaged and disengaged???

As long as I have owned the car-it has been operated in disengaged fashion. I donot know if previous owner ever operated it in engaged fashion.

The previous owner used Mark Lambert as mechanic-as I stated previous-Mark told him there was something wrong internal to the OD unit. I have sent an email to Mark but donot expect to hear from him as he gets involved with Peeble beach which is sometime around this time period.

I have found so far-all electrical components to be ok. I have not verfied the centrifugal switch and the kickdown sw it open. I hear a clicking sound in the solenoid when energized and it does open the contact to ground and will reset when power is removed from #3 solenoid terminal-and the light on the dash comes on-all as they are suppose to do.

My next step is to drive it with centrigual sw in the circuit and kickdown switch shorted out. I still suspect the solenoid is not engaging enough or the pawl is stuck?? or ?? If you have other thoughts I am receptive.

David

As long as I have owned the car-it has been operated in disengaged fashion. I donot know if previous owner ever operated it in engaged fashion.

The previous owner used Mark Lambert as mechanic-as I stated previous-Mark told him there was something wrong internal to the OD unit. I have sent an email to Mark but donot expect to hear from him as he gets involved with Peeble beach which is sometime around this time period.

I have found so far-all electrical components to be ok. I have not verfied the centrifugal switch and the kickdown sw it open. I hear a clicking sound in the solenoid when energized and it does open the contact to ground and will reset when power is removed from #3 solenoid terminal-and the light on the dash comes on-all as they are suppose to do.

My next step is to drive it with centrigual sw in the circuit and kickdown switch shorted out. I still suspect the solenoid is not engaging enough or the pawl is stuck?? or ?? If you have other thoughts I am receptive.

David

As a TEMORARY diagnosis:
Bypass/disconnect/disable all relays, wires, vacuum lines etc that are EXTERNAL to the OD unit. Determine the MINIMUM external electrical and/or external mechanical controls needed to engage/disengage the OD unit. If two new wires and toggle switch will engage/disengage the unit then u know that the internal workings of the OD unit are ok.

If the above temporary manual operation of the OD works then continue to diagnose the relays, wireing etc.

IF the minimum required control as i indicated above soes not work then there is problems inside of the OD unit.

On any kind of relays or other points type switches use an ignition points file to clean the contact points just like cleaning regular ignition points. Check Service manual for gap settings.

Well the good news-centrigual switch works-but still no od.I got up to ~40mph and took foot off gas-light stays on and certainly no clunk. The next step is pull the solenoid which I suspected all along. Proably a pause as to getting back under the car.
\
thks

David

PS Packardv8-there is no question power is being applied to #4 and #3 terminals on the solenoid-I do hear a sound like a relay closing

It would seem that if you have the kick down switch jumpered that would make the solenoid want to disengage. When I installed an R11 in my 38 I had to do my own wiring set up. I ran the governor wire up to a toggle under the dash then to the relay. No lights no kick down. To "kick down" I break the connection from the gov. and hit the clutch

That is correct to kill the OD need to open the circuit-but to energize the OD kickdown switch must be close(mine is open)thus I put a jumper on it. Everything electrically is working up to the solenoid-we are not sure if it is extending enough to push the pawl in place or if something is preventing the pawl from engaging.

I am gathering instruments(tools) to go where I have never gone!!

The r11 as I understand it does not have a dash light like the r9 by the way the dash light comes on when I hit about 20 mph but I never get the clunk sound and the light stays on-I think it is suppose to go out with engagement.

Quote:

R9's and R11's are quite different electrically with the R9 being more complex. Jumpering, shorting or eliminating the kickdown switch - whichever term you use - on either would have the same results though. One less item that could interrupt the circuit which provides the relay ground. Anything preventing the relay from activating would mean no solenoid.

Well-I finally pulled the solenoid. The unit almost fell out-I left the wires connected and put a ground on the unit. It poped out about .5 inch-light was off on the dash. I believe the end of the solenoid shaft was not in the pawl. I have not reinstalled the thing if you think of something else to do

David