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I found some fittings last night that might work to run the vacuum line from the manifold.

But by coming off the manifold, if there's vacuum on the advance at idle, wouldn't I have to adjust the distributor to compensate? I know how to do that, but just wondering. Or, at idle, the amount of vacuum is insufficient to move the arm?

I would like to do this because I could use the carburetor vacuum port to run the dashpot throttle guard.

So for now:
1. Fix float level
2. Suck on the vacuum advance with the distributor cap off

I think I'll have to put the iPhone on a tripod and video it to see if anything moves. Nothing like doing it.

I'll be happy if I can get it running as well as when I started this.

Quote:

Joe, the essence of the "Fix" is to provide more ignition advance at idle by having the distributor chamber connected directly to manifold vacuum.

The additional advance will cause the engine to idle faster; hence, the need to readjust the idle speed and mixture back to specified settings. After this adjustment, the engine will idle at specified RPM, but the vacuum advance will be full on.

Many cars of the 1960s and '70s used this method of connecting manifold vacuum directly to the distributor.

At idle you should be getting full vacuum from the manifold connection.

(o{}o)

VACUUM ADVANCE:
For me, 'the third time's the charm' doesn't apply, unfortunately. It takes me at least 4 times to get it right. So the Stromberg AAV-26 has been off 3 times, but if it has to come off again, I'll buy yet another carb kit and take it back to Meryl, THE Portland carb guy.

When I started this restoration, I didn't anticipate a lot of things, least of all having to suck on a part, but following OD's instructions to test the Vacuum Advance diaphragm, I popped off the distributor cap and hooked it out of the way. I set up some lights and iPhone video focused on the open distributor in order to record any movement as a result of sucking on the vacuum advance tube. On the passenger side, I disconnected the vacuum tube from the carburetor.

I started the video, then went around and leaned in to suck on the vacuum tube. Way below is a photo of the setup and of the disconnected tube. The links below are to the same video. I'd really like to know if any of the 3 alternatives below can be viewed. If not, I'll upload my videos to You Tube.
There's movement.

http://www.mktx.com/joe/AdvanceTest-desktop.m4v

http://www.mktx.com/joe/AdvanceTest.mov

http://www.mktx.com/joe/AdvanceTest-iPhone-cell.3gp

FLOAT LEVEL: I removed the carburetor to recheck the float level with a metal ruler... 1-11/32" I did bend it slightly, but the level looks right to me.

IDLE ARM SPRING: It popped off in the process. It took me a few tries to connect it, get one end through the hole and the other end hooked on the groove in the arm using a electronics-sized screwdriver.

So I have vacuum, and the advance works. I have fuel pressure. I have to test-drive it, but it was raining this morning and the top's down.

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The first and third videos work for me.

They all work for me using MAC OSX & Firefox but the third is 1/4 the screen size of the others and not very good quality when enlarged enough to view.

OK, Thanks. I'll use the first format m4v
Joe

Woo Hoo!!!
The fluff is gone.

I don't know exactly which of the things I changed, resolved it. I did adjust the floats the tiniest bit. When I look at my measurement photos and read the manual, I'm not sure my measurement is good with the floats upside down.

I bent the fast idle rod so the choke is open 3/32" on fast idle.

I'm wondering if that choke spring was disconnected all along. By fixing it, it may keep some tension of the choke to keep it open. Perhaps it was flopping closed when the draft became strong. I don't know, just a guess.

But a wonderful feeling to be zipping up hill and no fluffing.

Thanks for the help and encouragement.

OK, Thanks. I'll use the first format m4v
Joe

Glad to hear the problems are behind you! A disconnected choke spring could easily have been the cause or part of the cause of the problem.

I'm glad the problem's solved, but in the Santana Book of Repair, I still have one more time (4th) to take the carburetor apart in order to get it right.

When all else fails, read the manual.

Is the way I measured the float depth legitimate, with the top upside down as in the photos above.

The manual says " If tool (Packard No. S.T. 5154 or Stromberg T-24971) is not available, set floats to bring top of each 1-11/32-inch below cover gasket.

My upside-down measurement looks like it is from the gasket to the Bottom of the float. What is the correct way to take this measurement?

I don't relish taking it off again. Fortunately I have another gasket. And I read there should be a "bushing" (RB) on the fast idle rod. Is that just a cap to help retain the fast idle spring?

Floats often have two adjustments, the one that sets the fuel level, and the float "drop" (though no all carbs have that spec). For most carbs the float level is set just the way you show, and then can be verified by opening the check plug on the float chamber with the engine idling. As has been said before, the fuel level should then be just at the bottom of the threads of the plug opening.