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what about something else to file them with besides ignition point? WE haven't got into them yet. I don't know the gaps either

Buy yourself a set of jeweler's files, you'll find them eternally useful and the sets usually contain one thin flat file suitable for plugs. Or run to the auto parts store and buy a point file. Or, how about a finger nail file? Seriously, whether you file them or not isn't going to make the difference between starting and not starting - filing the electrode faces surfaces flat makes it possible to accurately set the gap with a flat feeler gauge, otherwise use a round wire gauge. And a difference in gap of +/- 0.010" also isn't going to make a difference of whether it starts or not though it will very much affect how it runs. Gap should be 0.028 inch.

If you decide to install new plugs I would go with the AC M-8 because thay are more resistant to fouling.

Tim, according to my chart the UY6 is the same heat range as the M8.

For those of us who dealt with leaded gasoline, the filing of the spark plug electrodes served two purposes: as O_D pointed out serves as a flat surface for the gauge, and cleaned lead deposit build up from the end of the electrode for a better conduction of the spark. Lead deposits are a thing of the past. Still prefer a wire gauge for setting plug gaps, but a flat gauge will work too.

(o{}o)

We might just go ahead and buy new plugs as the old ones are really black. On my gauge it only goes to .025 I guess I can get close enough with that.

So AC M8 are the ones to buy, we have to go to wally world later--you think they have them?

Just buy a good spark plug gap gauge when you go to the auto parts store to get your very own points file. Spark plug gap difference between .028 and .025 is not critical and the .025 gap will work, but why not set them to their proper gap? New plugs are a very good idea, either the Champion or AC ones will do the job.

(o{}o)

The Autolite equivalent of the M8 is Autolite #3136, available at most any auto parts store. Though years back I favored AC, I've become a strong fan of the Autolite spark plugs.

OK, we put new Autolite plugs in it today, had to go to 4 different stores to find them (O-Reilly). Anyway, car still wouldn't start immediately but we kept pouring little amounts of gas in the carb and each time it would run a little longer. Finally on about the 10th time she started and kept running. We let it run for about 15 minutes and it now seems to idle to high, before you could kick the gas pedal after it warmed up and it would go down to a good idle speed and run about 20 lbs. oil pressure. Now it was running to fast (I think) and the oil pressure was reading 55-60 lbs. Maybe we didn't let it run long enough? Just not really sure as I/we are no experts for sure. WE cut it off and let it sit and it started right back up, so I guess it's a fuel thing? What about the fast idle?

On another note he also has a 54 Patrician that has new engine rebuild that usually always start when we're at the garage. It always starts and runs fine. Well, this time it started, ran rough for about a minute and quit. Then it would not fire back up, it seems to have about 1/4 gas in the tank. It's always something--sorry for so long.

Dear Packard0:

Good job.

I have found that AC plugs of the same heat range are more resistant to fouling than Champions. I avoid Champions. The MBA's took over and cheapened the product.

The gradual recovery is symptomatic of a fuel issue. Maybe just compression loss due to fouled spark plugs.

If the car acts up again, hook the fuel pump up to a gas can and if the car doesn't act up then the tank is filthy.

One more note: If this guy is starting those motors and not driving the cars then that is the most likely cause of his problems. If you are not going to drive a car then just let it sit and use a battery charger.