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Jeez, I didn't post in a while. The car ran great at the packard meet. First tank was 17 mpg all on country roads or highway cruising. Second tank of fuel was 15 mpg with more around town driving and then faster (60mph) cruising on the autobahn.
On the last leg of the trip my wife even mentioned how well the car ran. I was happy to hear that! She suggested that I enter in a local show on the 5th of Aug. Let's see if we can win a prize.
Anyway, drove just a few times since the long journey. I noticed one of the freeze plugs started leaking. I only have the radiator cap half way tight to lower pressure in the cooling system. Guess I will drain the coolant, try and remove the oil fill tube, and then drill out the old, and tap a new freeze plug in with a hammer.
Still lots of little things to do, but she runs and drives well, which is important to me.

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Such a tiny bit of seepage. I wonder if one of the radiator stop leak products would be worth trying before tearing it apart -- something like the tablets Cadillac supplied to dealers to stop seepage in porous blocks.

I am loath to put any kind of "gunk" into the coolant system like bars leaks or whatever. I'd rather baby it for a while, then replace the plug.
I also installed fake acorn nuts I got from restoration supply in CA (I think, or restoration specialties)
At first I thought it looked a little gaudy, but am getting used to the bling.

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The manufacturers actually used radiator sealant pellets as part of the assembly process. Given all the cars & all the junctions, it was a necessity!

The drip looks awfully clean and clear to have come from inside the engine! Could it be from some other source?

The machine shop that rebuilt the engine said they did a thorough job of cleaning out the water jacket in the block, and I believe them. I once drained the radiator to clean the gano filter, and the coolant and filter were both very clean. That is coolant, just before I took the pic, I had wiped it dry. Then another drop came out from the bottom of the freeze plug.

Still doing little jobs. I got my courtesy lights and the light on the roof in the backseat working. I also installed the voltage reducer I made a while back for powering the clock! I had soldered this thing together and it cuts the 12 or 14 volt input down to a constant 6.7 volts regardless of load. Although the clock dosn't really draw much current. Way back when, I tried running my clock on 12 volts, and then tried running it on 6-7 volts. I found that it wound "softer" and that the cycles between winding were longer when running the clock on the normal voltage.
Anyway, I just drilled a small hole in the bracket that comes down from the cowl to the steering column, and attached the voltage reducer to it. Wired the 12v to the circuit breaker for the body feed that used to supply the clock and installed a fuse. The ground between the 12v and 6v is common, so that is just a body ground. Then the 6v signal goes to the clock! It's been running 2 hrs now and is keeping good time.
It is really cool to have that thing ticking in the dashboard!
My fingers are crossed that the clock and voltage reducer keep working. It only draws 20 milli Amps, so battery drain for about a month at a time should be no probelm, but I will be monitoring it the next few days.

Hope you can picture where this is under the dash. The thick black cable is the radio antenne cable, and the steel bowden cables are for the heater controlls.

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Clock lost about 5 min per day over the last 3 days. I'll try and speed it up, but so far, so good. The voltage converter draws 0.2 watt, which should not kill my battery too quickly, but I will monitor things in the next weeks.
My hood unlatches itself once in a while when I go over a bump. I closed it this morning after my "pre-flight" fluids check. When I closed the hood, I also pulled up on the hood ornament to check that it was closed properly.....I ran over a recessed man hole cover on the way to work, and the hood unlatched. grr.
Any advice on which way to adjust? deeper/shallower on the plunger thing attached to the hood, or left/right/forward/back on the latch? The rubber bump stops are new all around the hood, cowl and grille.

Thanks for any clues!

As a start, I think with new bumpers the upper plunger may need to drop down maybe 1/2 turn to ensure the lip is under the lower catch.

If it still feels like it might open, then with the hood and splasher both being off and reinstalled in probably a different position, it might also be worth some kind of indicator paint on the lower catch to see how much and where the upper plunger lip is landing before being captured. It could be a combination of not down far enough and also offset so the lower catch is barely able to seize on the edge of the upper plunger.

Hood and clock and battery are both doing just fine the last 2 weeks with me driving to and from work 1 or 2x a week when the weather is nice. I adjusted the clock once and it has been accurate since then.
Another thing I noticed that I would like to fix is after filling up my fuel tank and making a long right turn, I get fuel sloshing out of the gas cap
The vent hose is new, and the seal on the sender unit is good, so I'm pretty sure it is leaking out the cap. (also only happens after filling up the tank)
I looked in the parts X-Ref, and there is no stant or similar equivalent listed that I could simply purchase. Can I cut a new gasket for the cap from cork/rubber mix or paper gasket material and use that? Of course I don't want to get rid of the venting, but would like to stop my fuel smell after a right turn!