Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Everything should turn relatively easily by hand. My first guess would be one of the bushings is not at proper depth and second would be some spacer or thrust washer was omitted or not right thickness. Does the direct drive clutch plate move freely when just that section is assembled? Does the reactor assy in fig 54 turn properly per drawing? Are the tangs in the rear washer in fig 63 clearing the bolts and spacer on pump half? Somewhere there has to be a point where things are not free and would look there or just before.

I wonder if this problem is evidence of why the factory did not list the bushing as a service part. I'm wondering if it was only serviced as a complete shaft assembly because the bushing required some burnishing or other sizing technique.

Perhaps member Ross will chime in, when time permits.

i am going to take it back apart and show you guys what i did.

the reactor shaft will spine freely without the pump half on, but the shaft that goes into the reactor is locked in both direction, you should beable to turn it one way and it will lock the other.

the bushing in the end of the outside shaft fits good, but when i put the inside shaft through to mate the two halves, it is a PITA to get it one. shouldn't it be easy and you should beable to turn it when the two halves are mated.

if this doesn't work i'll just put the old bushing back in as i know it was fine with that one and it didn't seem to be in too bad of shape.

idk....i'm kinda lost and feel overwhelmed with it.

thanks for the info guys lets gets this figured out so i can put this trans work to rest. i'm ready

Hank

With that shaft locked in both directions, would start there and verify the splines are not upside down or backward or one or even the spring has slipped out of position. Does that shaft have a slight angle and maybe is not slipping all the way into position.

fixed the reactor shaft problem. free one direction and lockup the other now. perfect!

i had installed the two sprags that Ross gave me in the wrong position. whoops...i swear i didn't do that....but obviously i did.

that was easy on that one.

about to figure out why it so tight a fit.

hang tight.

Hank

either the bushing is wrong or it is WAY too tight of a clearance. i have hit it with a scotch pad to wear it down a bit and that didn't make much different. i put the reactor shaft through and turned it with vice grips on really tight and a hammer, that was how hard it was....so something isn't right.

unless it is supposed to be that tight to begin with...then i don't know what else to do.

Hank

okay, since the bushing was pretty much not working out and it was probably screwed up from me messing with it 1000 times, i just hooked up a wire brush to my variable speed drill and took it slow, alittle at a time until i could put the reactor shaft through with force and still turn it by hand with force.

not sure if that is right, but eh it worked and now i can turn it.

putting it back together now and will let you know if i can spin the TQ by hand on the Transmission.

hold tight one more time.

and if i did something wrong....well i'm sorry....laugh at me at will


Hank

Easy there son. That bush does need to be nicely fitted, but you should be able to turn the shaft with ease. Being a babbit faced bushing, it is not burnished in place, merely pressed in. However it is real easy to press it in too far. If it rides up onto the rough-machined portion of the bore it will neck in and the reactor shaft will not fit correctly. If you can't salvage it, let me know.

For checking fits of bushings and shafts a cheap set of expanding bore gages and even a lousy dial caliper are a huge help. Maybe someone more adept can find a picture of these type of bore gages somewhere and post it.

Bore gauges:




They are available in all kinds of sizes, and this is just a typical picture of a myriad of designs.

"and if i did something wrong....well i'm sorry....laugh at me at will"


Steel brush on a babbitt bearing, ROTFLMFAO! I've heard it ALL now!

Another style bore gauge, a caliper & a micrometer. All these are available at any good tool outlet in various quality ranges & are worthwhile additions to any shop.

Attach file:

---

  (14.94 KB)


  (15.05 KB)


  (5.64 KB)