Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

In searching the files on this board, I have not found anything on removing this switch. It feels rather dry so some service is in order.
Thanks.

If you mean the 55-6 switches, once the knob is off you need the hex shaped tool or a facsimile thereof which goes over the shaft to unscrew the retaining nut inside the bezel. The knob releases by finding the notch at the base and then inserting a small screwdriver to push up against a spring clip while pulling the knob off. On the tool, It is possible to make something using 1/4 hex but the tool is already made and easier to use with the handle. 51-4 and the entire bezel just unscrews. Once the switch is out you can unbend the tabs holding the phenolic terminal support to get to the interior. Be advised the rheostat portion and the contacts around the shaft is where problems with dash lights usually occur. The rotating contact pieces seem to oxidize and corrode quite easily. If the rivets are loose and corrosion has set in between the contact surfaces on the terminal pieces and contact plates they connect, it is almost impossible to clean around the pieces and have it last. The ceramic holding the assy is very brittle so I wouldn't advise trying to tighten the rivets by brute force.

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I removed the headlight switch in my 54 Cvalier.

There is a little allen set screw that lets you remove the knob.

I made a wrench to unscrew the nut that holds the switch in the dash which has two pins that engage the slots on either side.

My car has an ashtray directly under the switch that can be eisily removed and then you can get to the wires easily.

The wires plug into the switch and you can destroy the switch if you get heavy handed. The wires in my car are stiff and petrified.

Disconnect the battery before you start.

The switch is easy to damage and I believe they are scarace.

Jim

Use a ignition points file or some VERY THIN file to clean up the rheostat contacts for the dimmer. BE VERY GENTLE!!! Coat with some silicone grease.

Probably not necessary to dissassemble the internal parts from the switch. Just chek the rivets and contacts and clean them with a FILE or SCRAPE with a knife blade.
Test it before u put it back in the dash. That's all i had to do to my 56 Exec sw and it works fine now. Not sticky at all.

Mite want to use some Lubriplate grease instead of silicone. Lubriplate is a BRAND NAME of a "white grease" That's what i usually use but sometimes use the silicone grease.

The secret to electrical problems is SCRAPE OR FILE contactss to SHINY clean virgin metal and coat with some lubricant such as Lubriplate or silicone grease. Ultimately, the Lubriplte will be best.

i have have hex stock, i can make this tool, just been too busy,, 1/4 hex with a 1/8 hole,,,maybe bigger than 1/8

Thanks guys, I have used Silicone grease & lubriplate in the past, both with success.
And disconnect the battery? What if I wear welding goggles instead?

I know you're jesting, but.....

We had an interesting demonstration in auto shop in high school. The teacher took a finger ring and used it to create a dead short under the dashboard. In about 2 seconds the ring was white hot and then melted - suppose your finger was in it?

The lubriplate will be OK. Don't use WD-40.

The tabs that keep the switch together can break off esprcially if you are not the first to take it apart.

The little lugs you plug the wires into break the phenolic which has probably decomposed. The plastic insulation on the wires will have become stiff.

I plan to put a relay on my headlights.

Coming home in the dark one night all the lights including headlights went suddenly off when I turned into my neighborhood. I discovered later after I survived, that the wire that runs to the light bulb in the transmission selector on the steering column had shorted up at the socket.

Getting that ligh back in was a major PITA after I put in a new wire.

I have a friend who got his watch band across a 12 volt car battery using an end wrench. Welded it to his arm while glowing brightly.

Jim