Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Thanks to all for the help, for now I am looking into rebuilding the cable myself, so I will keep ya'll updated on how's it's going.
So as it stands I just wired it up and as I've been going along checking what I can to see if the parts are working. The only thing I haven't been able to check is the speed sensor, since I've had it up on blocks. Being that it is a 47 it does have the indicator for the Overdrive Light and I was looking into using that light to show that the Overdrive was engage, but the light socket had been removed so I had to use a different light.
It's getting there.
Thanks again!
Wes

The big question is will the solenoid close and engage the OD-this question can be answered by connecting terminal 5 on the relay to ground. If you hear the clunk-you are probably home free. mine all the lights etc work/speed switch etc but it will not kick in. Something inside is preventing it from engaging-

Good advice for an R-9, but I think he has an R-11 unit and a relay with fewer terminals.

(o{}o)

JW is correct, I do have the R-11 but I also have the black relay box for the R-9. I'm beginning to think they never used this Overdrive after it was installed.
I did run a wire from the Negative post to the solenoid and I heard it clunk, so I'm guessing that works, but that does not guarantee that the Overdrive still works.
Still pressing on.
Wes

For an R11 relay you can pick up a small cube type instead of the more expensive OD item. Except for having the built in fuse the function is identical. You would need to add an inline fuse if you chose to use the cube style in place of the real thing.

Another poster said pre 68 VW headlight relays available at some parts stores are 6v and 30 amp contacts. When repairing the OD relay on his car he was able to get a Bosch 0332204001 and gut his old R11 relay can to hide the new inside. In his case he was able to reuse the original fuse holder on the outside. As expensive and scarce as they are, obviously you wouldn't want to gut an R9 relay but hiding the cube type is not difficult if you don't have the proper can.

The Bosch relays may be more expensive but Newark has a different mfg and the same style for around $6.50 per relay. They have a couple with tab type terminals which would be suitable and not be a hard swap. You could even buy one for the OD and a couple extra for headlights or something else for a single shipping charge.
http://www.newark.com/relays_automotive

Update installed wiring, bought a relay (TE CONNECTIVITY / POTTER & BRUMFIELD RELAY, AUTOMOTIVE, SPDT, 14VDC, 40A) and wired it in. Still no cable, but added a toggle switch to act as the cable switch. And also wired in a light to let me know when the Overdrive was being powered. So I pulled and wired the Overdrive arm all the way back. Which would be the position with the knob pushed all the way in if I had it. And the first thing I found is that I don't have Reverse, is this normal?
Next took it out on the road and above 35 MPH my green light would come ON. I would let up on the gas pedal and push back down and it was like shifting into another gear. No longer was the engine screaming at 45 MPH as I got her up to 50 MPH's. Next I started slowing down and noticed that my light would go out about 25 MPH.
So that all seems to working. Now my question is my overdrive broken or do I have to get my cable fixed and installed to have Reverse?
Thanks!
Wes

Not quite sure how you've wired your relay and switch. I'd be curious to see your schematic and how you did the light since that wasn't a part of R11 units. Fixing the lockout lever in position is no different than the knob being pushed in so that should not cause the reverse issue UNLESS the solenoid is somehow being engaged when the car is not moving. Once the solenoid has moved the pawl the reverse lockout is engaged to prevent a driver from trying to use reverse when the sun gear is held and power is being transmitted thru the planetary since reverse can't be passed thru the overrunning clutch.

On an R11 the lockout switch should be in the power lead coming from ign switch to the relay. Governor will provide the ground thru the kickdown switch and bring in the relay and solenoid when it reaches speed of approx 20mph. 35 sounds a bit high but that is dependent on axle ratio and governor calibration.

Hi Howard, I just installed the relay like in the old drawings, just changed the pin numbers, the light was added in parallel with the Overdrive Solenoid. And as far as the Lockout Switch I just put a toggle switch in to make sure I could disengage the circuit inside the car. It appears the Overdrive Solenoid is engaging and disengaging as power is applied and removed in the circuit.
Thanks for the help.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (83.94 KB)


  (84.78 KB)

Electrical looks OK but I don't see any other explanation for anything preventing reverse gear selection when car is just sitting other than solenoid is engaging the pawl. Here's a couple of photos showing what I think is happening. Note the lockout lever is in the OD position on both photos.

The lockout lever in the front or lockout position physically moves the sun gear to take the planetary out of the flow and also moves a rod into a cutout in the pawl to prevent the solenoid from being able to move it.

Attach file:

---

  (106.46 KB)


  (82.84 KB)

I'm wondering if this might be my problem (see picture below) from the Borg Warner Overdrive Manual, since it doesn't look like the Overdrive ever worked before I got the car. Also I read something in the 49 Service Counselors (23-4) about problems with the shift arms.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (106.40 KB)