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47 Overdrive
#1
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Wesley Boyer
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Well here I go again. I decided to finally connect up the overdrive since my black 47 Packard tops out at about 45MPH. Read up on all the manuals for the R9 overdrive located the safety switches and installed the black relay box. So I figured a good starting point would be to touch a 6 volt wire to pin 4 on the solenoid and hear the chatter of the solenoid, but guess what, I find a R11 instead of the R9 overdrive. So now I need to find a good wiring diagram, I looked at the 49 schematics, but I need a little bit more detail. I'm assuming that I'm better off with the R11, so any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Wes

Posted on: 2015/10/17 19:14
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#2
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HH56
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Not sure if there is any more detail than this schematic. There is a writeup on the R11 in Service Counselor Vol 23 #2 of Feb 1. 1949 which is where the schematic was originally published.

There is also a B-W training book on the R11 in the literature sectionhttp://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/BW_OD.pdf but the schematic is pictorial and generic so not Packard specific.

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Posted on: 2015/10/17 19:39
Howard
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#3
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Wesley Boyer
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Thanks Howard, that's what I was looking for. I knew if anybody would know, it would be you. Packard has an excellent troubleshooting for the R9 but with the R11 I guess I can get all my information from the B-W manual and I'll checkout the Service Counselor Vol 23 #2.
Thanks again!
Wes

Posted on: 2015/10/17 19:53
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#4
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Wesley Boyer
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Now since the I found out that I have a R-11 instead of a R-9, my next question is the Overdrive Cable the same for both or is one longer than the other. It's
hectic putting together something somebody else took apart.
Thanks!
Wes

Posted on: 2015/11/3 14:53
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#5
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HH56
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Switch and cable assy are the same but wiring is different. Switch is in the hot side of relay on an R11 and in the ground side on the R9 but same switch.

On the cable itself, the only thing they did when the R11 was retrofitted to older R9 cars was change the side the cable was mounted on the crossmember. That entailed moving the U bolt and mounting bracket that clamps over the cable to a new location on the drivers side of car. Assuming your R11 was installed and functional long before you got the car that should all be done.

Posted on: 2015/11/3 15:32
Howard
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#6
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Wesley Boyer
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Thanks Howard, found the mounting bracket was on the correct side for the R-11 because a wire was tied to it holding the overdrive lever what looks like in Overdrive position. <div> Now on to the cable. Looks like I need a new cable or try to build a new one. </div><div> And also need a new switch.</div><div>Well wish me luck and thanks for the help. </div><div>Wes</div><div></div>

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Posted on: 2015/11/5 10:03
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#7
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HH56
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Too bad about the cable. A good Packard cable and bracket assy is very expensive and the aftermarket cables I've seen do not have provisions for a switch or an end for the clevis.

The crimp holding the cable is already split so at least that cable could be removed from the bracket without too much more effort. Perhaps the cable could be replaced with one of the aftermarket or even a bare Bowden cable of that size could be purchased. The knob shaft pulls out from the front. Cable core is inserted thru the end and retained by being flattened thru a hole in the shaft to make it wider than the end hole. Not sure what you could do about the clevis shaft end. I know the guys in Australia have a place that makes those kind of cables so maybe there are some shops here too.

Max has the switch but it is also expensive. I don't know offhand of any aftermarket or generic switch that will work. The travel of the plunger is so slight -- less than 1/8" -- that any modern switch would never actuate -- even if it would screw into the bracket..

Here is a photo of the shaft and cable attachment. The switch plunger travels the distance between the wire up the taper to the diameter of the shaft. The other photo is a repair to the crimp I made using a couple of split shaft collars. I enlarged the inside of one to slide up more on the end of the bracket to be less visible and to provide room for a second collar to close the split better.

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Posted on: 2015/11/5 11:12
Howard
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#8
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flackmaster
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There is an outfit in California that can rebuild the cable - I am not at my desk and the info is buried, something original sounding like Cables, Inc....Orange County if I recall.....anyone recall?

I have a NOS switch which will be released for any reasonable donation to my niece's post-polybutylene plumbing surprise in South Florida. Nice surprise for a 27 year old first time homeowner...

PM me your address for shipment of switch. In the meantime I will look to see if I might have a good cable.

DAF

Posted on: 2015/11/5 11:38
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#9
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HH56
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Great that Flackmaster has found a switch for you but don't throw the old one away. I think with a little experimentation and fabrication there could be a way to adapt a modern microswitch. Those have minimal activating travel requirement and the right size can carry decent amps. While it wouldn't look correct it is hidden enough that the change wouldn't be too visible and would be a low cost alternative to the proper switch. Unless there are lots more of those switches around than I would believe, If we could come up with something it might save someone else down the road.

Basically you would remove the broken plastic electrical part but keep the plunger and threaded portion. Fabricate an L or U bracket that would hold the microswitch. Adapter bracket would have a hole that would be placed under the crimped part of housing -- sort of where the washer is. New switch would be supported at the right height and location so the old plunger could push and activate the button on the microswitch. That part would be important so would require the experimentation.

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Posted on: 2015/11/5 11:56
Howard
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Re: 47 Overdrive
#10
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Phil Randolph
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When I adapted an R11 to my 38 I used an old throttle cable and put an on/off switch on the dash. I don't have a kick down switch on the gas pedal but I just flip the dash switch and touch the clutch and I'm out of O/D.

Posted on: 2015/11/5 16:57
1938 1601 Club Coupe
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