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Henry, you've mentioned stainless steel head studs a couple of times. The various stainless alloys are wonderful metals for some applications but before I ever used one of those alloys for my cylinder head studs I'd try to compare metallurgical properties with correct traditional steel studs. And if I couldn't confirm that they were at least the equal of the correct studs, I wouldn't use them.

Sorry about the damage to the head and block from using a screwdriver - absolutely the wrong tool, the wedge is too rapid and the surface area to small to spread the forces without damaging the head or block, or both. Most appropriate tool in my experience is a thin bladed putty knife, or rather perhaps 6 of them inserted at intervals around the perimeter of the head and gently driven inwards. They should be inserted between the top surface of the gasket and head so damage, if it occurs, occurs to the head and not the block.

You can't detect differences in cylinder heads with the naked eye, it's the volume of the combustion chamber which you must measure with a liquid and a graduated vial in cubic centimeters.

No such thing as a 4bbl manifold, doubt it would make an appreciable difference on a small motor. Aftermarket fuel injection can be adapted, quite costly and will only affect "driveability" such as warm up and carb icing. If you want better performance consider a Packard 4M2500 engine from a PT boat, 2500 cubic inches and 1250 horsepower, at least your car will be "all Packard".

Yes later Packard straight 8's had hydraulic lifters but those engines were designed for those lifters. Just like V8's had overhead valves you can't take them and plop them into your motor.

Good luck with your motor, at each step ask the forum for advice to be sure you're going down the right path. We're here for you and your grandfather

thanks. I really am trying my best. I'm young and you guys have been there and done that...so I'm sure it gets old answering the same questions over and over.

I figured none of that was possible. just thoughts I have before I try falling asleep most nights. which usually consists of me starring at the ceiling as my heart throws bigeminy and pvcs till 4am. I can't afford half of what I think up. a PT engine power limo...damn...your thoughts are wilder then mine...wouldn't that be something! lol! I guess..technically...a 55/56 Packard V8 would still be Packard too. anyways.....lol I'm perfectly fine with the way the motor is now and plan on putting it back when I'm done revitalizing it.

as for the stainless studs. arp is no foreigner to this and neither is totally stainless. totally stainless supplied me with several of the stainless pieces I wanted on the 55 and they have them in strengths equivalent or above grade 8.

I also did try the putty knives and thin chisels....actually saw your advice to another forum member when I could not get the head to budge at all. they did not work. I really wish I could have recorded the 4-5 hours it took me to get this head off. a flipping air hammer was required to even barely lift the head up to get anything resembling a wedge in there...the putty knives just flexed and nothing else was thin enough and strong enough besides a screwdriver. please believe me when I say this little bitch did NOT want to come off.

I'd appreciate any pointers on removing front fenders and radiator shell/grille. I have the inner fender off the passenger's side already...that's how I got the intake/exhaust off. and I fully understand that whoever put this front end back on after painting didn't use anything close to the original nuts and bolts...so whatever advice you give me....I may have to improvise in reality.

also would like pointers on removing the transmission as it appears the shifter cane is all part of the trans. manual says to pull floor boards....but...yeah on my car the way they glued all of the carpet down that may not be as easy as it sounds. plus it is a limo....and the way the seat bottom goes in...there is wood attached to the floor. I guess I could drop the trans down a bit...unbolt the top with the shifter....remove the trans and fandangle the rest out sideways or something.

anyways...just need some pointers.

please enjoy this video of when my Grandfather was working on this same car. He had the front off and he took the head off. this is 26 years ago...1990 three years before his death.

watch video from this point for about 10 min or so. to see the car back together go to min 46.

https://youtu.be/2srjB4cHYcc?t=1391

Removal of the front clip is easy but the first time it can be time consuming due to rusted bolts. On my 37 120 I could (and had to) remove the clip often, had it down to 20 minutes.

1. unbolt fenders from running boards
2. Unbolt fenders from bottom edge of cowl
3. Place milk crate etc under rear edge of fenders.
4. Remove large nut from bottom of radiator cradle
5. Remove upper/lower rad hoses
6. Unplug headlight wires near generator etc.
7. Disconnect generator, distributor, etc wires
8. Unbolt hood rods
9. Remove screws at front edge of hood, slide it out of read mount (may have to remove rear screws??) Remove hood
10. Now the front clip should be free, shake it, lift front to see if I forgot anything
11. Lift from each fender at top of wheel arch(2 people)
12. As you lift high move it forward over the wheels
13. Have 2 beers close at hand

14. I recall the central nut had a cotter pin, I left it out.
also used new bolts/nuts making second time a snap

good luck and let me know what I forgot since I last did it in 1962

Front is off. All nuts and bolts were new already. Only thing you left out is the running board stainless trim and the lateral supports for the lower backs of the fenders to frame.

Of course the paint took a knick... should buff out.

Trans is out as well. It was a little turd, but I muscled it out. Took it from the top. Ripped out the gorilla glued carpet to find a half rotting piece of removable wood floor that was not bolted in at all. My son took out 4 bolts from trans himself as I supervised. He was covered in dirt and grease. The wife was super excited cause it was little man's bed time lol!!

Motor is free and ready to come out. Going to get hoist tomorrow from my storage/shop and tear down motor to take block to machine shop. Hopefully I can take my time and mark everything so I know where it came from and get to the machine shop before 6pm.

Will look over bearings and have machine shop access cylinder condition.

new transmission mounts will be needed, rotten. and that rubber support at the very end of the trans is missing, can't recall the name of that at the moment...but helps with keeping the motor center or something like that.

quick question....throw out bearing...should it only rotate freely with no binding if I push in on it? if I push on the bearing and rotate it is smooth...if I don't push it is rough.

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What you describe of the throwout bearing is normal. They only handle axial load.

Thanks Ross! I know of a throw out bearing and what it does per say, but I never held one in my hand to play with. so thanks for the info dude!

new transmission mounts will be needed, rotten. and that rubber support at the very end of the trans is missing, can't recall the name of that at the moment...but helps with keeping the motor center or something like that.


Are you referring to the snubber -- a bar like affair that stretches between the end of trans and the frame? It helps keep the fore and aft engine and trans movement under control and is to aid in the elimination of engine movement which can cause clutch chatter. If so, I don't believe that was on 37s but rather the first version showed up on some models of 38s.

An improved design came out in early 39. There was a counselor article that detailed the changes and, IIRC, there was a followup article that said the new type snubber could be retrofitted to earlier cars on an as needed basis. I don't know if that retrofit was only for the 38s originally equipped or if it could have been extended to 37s if those had an issue. Flackmaster reproduced the bar portion with a heavier duty version but I don't know if he has the attachment brackets for trans and frame.

the bolt is on the trans, missing nut. the bar for the back side is on the frame with hole in it. its all setup and waiting for snubber.

I had bad noise, like clattering, in second, with this trans. putting in another trans I got from flack...hopefully its in better shape. and hopefully snubber helps.

throw out bearing spring was WAY out of wack...so that may have been part of it.

I have many pics and much info to give as motor has been stripped down and now is at the machine shop.