As I am trying to keep everything as authentic as possible and there were no wiper blades, I found some NOS Trico inserts that fit a set I had on the shelf. I have several Anco blades too but, of course, the Trico inserts won’t fit them and I’ve not looked to see if any are available.

The driver side rear brake has been buttoned up (the drum and tire are now back on and it's off the jack)! I noticed when getting the passenger side pieces all cleaned up that the one shoe was yellow and the other blue and so were they on the driver side. Co-incidentally, I happened to also be using a couple old t-shirts for wiping things and one was yellow and the other blue!

Changed the hold-down springs putting the yellow to the rear and the blue to the front and, after putting the cylinder back in, also installed the two return springs.



I had forgotten how much of a mess the passenger side was from a bad seal so didn’t get it done today as I had hoped but made good headway. Inner and outer seals are installed and the bearing cleaned and packed. The backing plate is soaking in the solvent tank after already giving it a go-over with a wire brush after it was in there for an hour or so.





Interesting that one shoe is blue and the other yellow and they have been paired as they were removed but it makes me wonder if each wheel has a pair from two different cars! No matter as this isn’t going anywhere other than on private property.



Between the springs, the shoes and even my rags, I seem to be seeing a lot of yellow and blue!

The grille shell is worth twice as much as the car!

Adding to the fleet! Too be honest this car is probably only good for parts, but I can't turn down a car for $300. More information tomorrow after I get home and have a chance to really look it over.

On my car, the driver side stainless window frame touches the vent glass pillar at the upper left corner with the window all the way up. The gap at the lower right corner between the glass frame and the body slot is about 7/16". The fit of the windows is almost exactly the same on both the driver and passenger side. The front of the vent window frame comes very close to the windshield frame on both sides. The glass frames come very close to the B pillars also. The door to cowl gap is no more than 1/8" and the door to body gap at the rear of the door is a little closer. Both are fairly even top to bottom, maybe a fraction closer at the top. This car has probably settled a little on the body mount pads, which are original. Doors open and close nicely, and the windows go up and down easily. The front vertical track for each window glass looks to be a stainless channel with the cat whisker stuff inside. The glass projects out of the stainless frame at the front about 3/16". The rear glass run has a couple of thin liners that look like rubberized cloth. It looks from here like your glass needs to be moved forward so that there is no gap between the stainless window frame and the back of the vent window frame with the window all the way up.

Going art decco.

And box of bushings going to Ross. Making 2 more 56's.

Think I'll have enough. With this container of polyurethane.

Thrn going to try their soft polyurethane. See if it's
More like rubber.

Using black tint. Does not get air bubbles.

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Remove the blades, turn the motor on for a weep then off to get the drive pulley in the correct starting position. Then ensure you have the cables wrapped around the drive pulley and positioned in the correct grooves with the copper and plain ends of the cables engaged in the drive pulley as shown in the photo on page 5 of the instrument section of 55-6 service manual. One of the cables from each side pivot goes on top, the other on the bottom. If that is correct the procedure is to turn the motor on again and let it run for a sweep or two (make sure the lever is set for the normal arc sweep) and then turn the wipers off. When the motor stops it should be in the park position. You can then place the arms on the serrated posts with the blade just barely touching the chrome molding or a tiny bit above it.

I use this.

Get about 3 feet small rubber hose and put down spark plug hole.

Turn engine till it stops.

This holds valve up.

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I finally found some wiper and tensioning assemblies and installed them on my 56, got decent tension on the cables without overdoing it so happy about that, but...
The blades are not sync'd, one is about 80 degrees off from the other.

I assume I have to swap out cable positions but dont see a better way that will fix this. What should I try?

Thanks in advance

I just checked, I don't have any more gas pedals left in the horde of Steele Rubber I had.