Just checked FB. Car is still available. Asking price has been dropped to $14,400.

I have over 450 miles I put on this thing and its running great. A couple issues have crept up... I tried putting on a different steering wheel and I couldnt get the horn to work (it did before). So I was fiddling around with the contacts in the column and I thought I got it to work right. Well I drove it the following day and as I was pulling out of a parking lot I lose power, the radio cuts and it feels like its coasting. Then the radio come backs on and power is back and I continue driving. While this was happening I was hearing some type of electrical noise in the steering column and it started to smoke. It stopped a couple seconds later and everything was fine but the horn didnt work... I figured something shorted or somehow that wire got power to it (it is a ground wire up through the column). Need to look into that. I dont know if this is connected but I also found out my power windows, seat and locks no longer work (need to check the circuit breaker and wires).

I was working on the a/c system and I may have leaned on the connections on the horn relay that allowed contact between the horn relay feed and the horn signal wire? again need to look into that.

BUT! I was able to get the a/c compressor and condenser mounted. I used the york to sanden mount and milled another slot into it and mounted it to the original compressor's mounting bracket. I used a SD7H15 Sanden compressor. I used an 11-1621 condenser and the associated mounting brackets which just reached the mount holes on the radiator support. There are mounting points all along the edge of the condenser so it makes it fairly easy to mount. I did need to make spacers that were about 1.125" long to keep the condenser away from the cross bar in front of the radiator.

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Thanks guys, I did check my manual but the only reference is on the lube chart and is quite vague, says "heavy oil" I think. Anyway, last night I rigged up a rubber hose to fit tightly over the fitting on the bell housing and pumped 10W40 into it from a pump oil can. It took it very slowly and I got about 8 pumps in it. When I started it it was completely quiet! I haven't drove it yet but I'm encouraged that the oil got to where it was supposed to and maybe is working. I'll post another comment when I drive it a few miles.
Kevinpackard, my car has a fitting on the outside of the bell housing on the passenger side. There is an access plate on the bottom right below the release bearing and I can see there is a flex line going from this fitting to the bearing. Maybe yours has the same set up?

hi, do you still have this radio?

When i started in the Duchess Project, the only skill i had was cleaning. I didnt have any tools, either, except a pair of pliers, screwdriver and hammer. I would clean something and get help here on what to do next. If you ever feel frustrated, check out the The Duchess Project. Lots of pictures including recently tearing my dash out. It’s a ‘40 160, but still many similarities. You can learn from my stupidity and see the help i received to get it done. The Duchess is my only car these last 3 years i’ve lived in MD. I drive it every day. Good luck. It’s a great looking car. Well worth the effort.

I'll attach some more photos. The reason I want to do a frame-off is because it will make working on parts of the car a million time easier and will allow me to address any rust spots. The car is pretty clean, but it's not like a car that has spent its whole life in California in a garage. Sorta more like "lipstick on a pig" with the paint job and chrome work that was done previously. It really could stand the POR 15 treatment and all new bushings, etc.. As long as I can get those parts anyways...

I've done disc brake conversions before, and they may cars much more driveable in my experience, so that seemed like a no-brainer in my mind. Maybe I will try to get the current setup working and see how I like it, since so many of you speak so highly of it. I assume it will need a new Master and wheel cylinders, at a bare minimum.

I guess I don't really care if the car is 12V or 6V. I am just looking for the path of least resistance to make the wiring operational, safe, and easy to work on. If I can buy a 12V starter, alternator, I would probably still prefer to go that route, but I'm open to whatever. I have to research it more.

You can see the green engine paint that matches the oil pan on the valve covers. So, someone had all that apart at some point. Maybe a valve job many many years ago?

I paid $9500 for the car. Does that seem like a fair deal from what can be seen?

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Found a set.

Agree with HPH, try the PAC Roster keeper. A long shot, but worth a try.

Giles van Hees,

to PackardInfo,
And for including your '30 Standard Eight Sedan in PackardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

Each state has some type of "title search" but for a vehicle sold out of the state they would probably not retain anything past 7 years. The other thing is to ask the roster keeper on the PAC website but the chance of them having anything decades old is very slim.