Preload of the worm bearings is controlled by shims at that lower plate. I know on the later cars the shim pack doubles as the gasket for the plate; the gasket is made of multiple thin plies that one may remove as necessary. 39 I don't know, but the shim may just be a ring of paper or steel that is placed in the end of the housing bore before the cover is installed. They need to have a right fair preload on them that is noticeable when turning the shaft by hand.

Another source of play in high mileage cars is the sector gear moving in the sector as those thrust bearings have worn. That will take some creative disassembly and shimming if that is the case.

Good Morning all...I think that this is a nice creative design. It's not a stock Packard, but many people could drive it and enjoy it. Someone had a bit of talent to build this machine! Big Kev is working on a 37 with a Jag engine!...for me, any Packard that is kept on the road, stock or modified is cool. Just my humble opinion...Ernie in Arizona

I am just completing the rebuild of a steering box for my39. Bought a rebuild kit from Max Merritt, all went "OK". Have it back together on the bench, and despite adjusting the gear back pressure screw, seems it has some free play. In thinking about the assembly, I do not see how the two main roller bearings on the worm gear get preloaded. There are no shims and even if there was, they cannot rely on that thin steel cover plate. How is the preload adjusted? Only shims are the ones for the pitman arm shaft and that is actually controlled by the adjustment screw.

This arrived today. I just unboxed it to make sure it was in good shape since the box took a bit of a beating. Then, put it right back in the box for another day down the road a bit.

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Thanks, I’ll look that up. I’m pretty optimistic now. I can’t say that I was a couple days ago. I don’t have access to a hoist, but I do have access to three 25-30 year olds. I think the four of us should be able to handle it. I’l put the two strong guys at the front. Then me and the other can help guide the fenders.

The '37 120 service literature outlines a procedure for removing the front clip as a unit, listing all bolts and clips and so forth to be removed, and showing the recommended lifting point if a hoist is used. Two people could do it, but 2 people and a hoist would be much preferred. I person and a hoist could do it. If you have good paint and straight sheet metal, then towels, tape, good lighting, and patience would be needed. Force should not be needed. If unbolted parts do not move easily, find out why before proceeding. Some pool noodles or pipe insulation foam might also prove useful.

Maybe lay a ruler next to them to gage the size. They look like the hold down bolts for the front motor mount on a forties Chrysler product.

Yes. Example: I've bought multiple Ultramatics for like $35-75 yet it costs almost a grand in parts to rebuild one.

Curious they say 3-5% friction reduction. I would assume that's tested in a modern engine. Probably a lot better in a classic engine to cut down on the piston friction.

Yeah I doubt it's really worth it, but could be interesting.

Many years ago, 2015 to be more specific, after I'd moved 100 kms away from Sydney and helping hands, I removed the entire front clip from my '41 120 Coupe by myself. I didn't have anyone to help me. Rigged up a chain block to the rafters of the garage and used rope and whatever else came to hand to aid me in this "adventure". Worked in both getting the clip off and on. Only thing was, I did it in two steps, first the bonnet(hood) then the front clip. Seeing you have helping hands will make it a whole lot easier.