Hope you didn't polish it too much looking. I had a difficult time finding markings, they're not very deep, like I was used to, and the numbers were poorly punched but there were degree lines. If I recall, from 0 to 10. The 0,5,10 lines were a bit heavier and maybe what you see. I fine wire brushed the grooves and wiped with white paint to make them prominent.
It timed right up with the inductive light, I just ran light off a 12v source.

Not to question authorities but sure those aren't '49 23rds that came out in late(Nov)'48?
I see '48's & '49's that are 22s or 22-9s that have paint on bumpers, but no paint on true '49 23rds.
The 22-9s were left overs so likely not changed. The 22's had a slot cut out of the middle in the front also. (a look which I like over the solid 23rd bumpers)
Just me looking at photos/parts/info.

I see a few options. Buy a donor car w/ good floors, make them or have someone make, or just repair the bad areas with patches. You have to use the proper gauge metal and roll the ribs in the pans for rigidity, if you make them. I see too many people use thin flat stock/anything they can get their hands on, license plates, sheet metal screws, bondo, etc. and then they get the oil can sound and it won't last.
Just about any vehicle that has sat a long time on dirt, tires allowed to go down, and weatherstrip/glass damage won't have good floors.
This idea that all cars after a certain point of deterioration need "restoration" is a for TV concept like barn find. The likely thing you'll find in a barn is some form of manure.

I suggest you better investigate your damage further. That rust is likely well under the paint and might need a larger patch than you think.
I'd get an estimate before deciding to do it yourself.
It looks like a patch that could be made fairly easily out of sheet stock.
It's old paint so probably a full quarter paint is best to get to look right. But have to evaluate the rest of the paint, can it be buffed to match. Not a rattle can fix.
You might find an old timer who could spot and feather match that old paint but todays guys haven't worked with it.

I'm fairly certain the rubber was molded to the steel. That's what the drawing I have shows and there's mold flash on the underside of mine. The rubber is not separate from the factory. It's bonded to steel and would be tough to remove if in good condition. Soaking in heavy solvent like kerosene, xylene, or penetrating oil might unbond them or blasting off the hardened rubber. Have to use an agressive abrasive media.

I thought about this some more and think the "old gas" is a symptom not a cause. If your gas is sitting around in the tank long enough to get "old", then you're not exercising your motor car enough.
There were studies done decades ago, that most of the wear in the internal combustion motors occurs during start-up, when the parts are turning but the oil pump hasn't established flow. Essentially a short run without oil. The longer it sits between starts the more the oil drains out of the system to the pan. That slow flow out can leave deposits behind. This is a known problem on race engines and they turn them without firing until the oil pressure comes up after builds. Tolerances are tighter here. They came up with break in oil and lubes now to minimize this.
If you're not starting your engine every week/daily then probably may want to think about disconnecting the coil wire and turning over with the starter until the oil circulates/pressure comes up. Might be hard on the old 6V starter, so don't over do it. Let the starter cool down before cranking again with the coil connected. And don't rev the engine "cold". Let it warm up before revving, if at all. They don't recommend idle warm ups anymore so a slight increase over idle is better than a large one.
Change the oil, at least yearly instead of based on mileage, if you don't drive enough to get to oil change in one year. It still degrades once the engine has fired. Combustion products go into the oil and the oil additives only last so long.
Depending on the type and age of motor you have, other maintenance might be called for.
Solid lifter motors need to have the valves adjusted properly too, because if they're loose/tight, it damages the valve train. If the motor wasn't completely rebuilt, there's likely sludge and deposits in the valves, oil pasages, etc, so inspection might be necessary also. They used leaded gas and that liked to build up crud on the valve stems. Some of these motors don't have oil filters and that's makes it even worse.

Here we go again, terminology scrabble.
I think he means "rubber mat assembly" what HH shows.
"Kick panels" are usually the covers under the dash where the vents grille attaches. I'm not sure what Packard called those, it'll be in the parts book.
The "scuff plates" are the stainless ribs next to the rubber mat assembly that attach with screws under the mat and hold down the carpet. That's why you don't pry them.
Best to get your correct part numbers, because they were a fiasco too.
If you find any let us know. Someone else wanted a set for a sedan a few months ago.
There might be 4 dr out there for 23 series but I doubt it. 2 dr are non-existent and I'm still working on that problem.
Max and Kanter sent me to "Joel" last year as the only source. All he made was the rubber.

That's a go.
Once you work it to a quarter turn, clip prys off quite easily.
I'm guessing it's better to recrimp both sides at once than try to peen one side at a time? You have to hold the handle in tight or it'll rattle. The spacer is a spring clip.
Something like a big pair of tongs or crimps. We had a tool like that from grandpa for pulling cut nails but I thinks it's history. Packard or their supplier probably had a machine for that.

Thanks, HH. I'll try to ease it off.
Mine's similar except the escutcheon is larger and has a lock hole. If handle's detented like yours it should work.
I dont; know if I'm putting back on but want the option. I might delete and use a remote trunk switch for a smoother look but am fixing all the chrome trim - it'll be worth more.

Anyone know for sure how to separate the handle from the escutcheon? (from club coupe)
Looks like they crimped the back side to a conical steel clip and if it's not separated right looks like it might not go back together. Forgot this piece since I took off long ago and need to get to chrome. Thanks.