If the rattle ONLY happens during the transition to direct drive, then that is most likely the DD clutch slipping a bit when engaging--somewhat normal on trans with old hardened clutch plates not used much. When it comes time for shift point, let up on accelerator while it shifts and if noise not present or greatly diminished, that is problem and some driving, possibly use of the trick shift fluid or in worst case, new clutch disk will probably make it go away. If the rattle is there all the time, then I'd check for something loose.

I believe there was one correction to the shop manual WRT to the throttle (valve) linkage, plus other variations and additional checks specified in Service Counselor and/or Service Technical Bulletin.

No mattter what aspect of the car you are working on, after reviewing the shop manual, be sure to check this website's Packard Service Index feature.

As for noise, if you are sure it is coming from the front of the transmission, I'd suggest removing the lower cover to inspect the flywhell/flexplate screws. If you haven't done so already, that might be a good time to drain and refill the trans fluid - including the converter. If you remove the spark plugs from the engine, you'll find it easier to rotate the converter and access both of its drain plugs.

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I would just try installing a new coil just to see if that is your problem before spending the dough on a rebuilt one. If it is the coil you and are concerned about absolute authenticity the rebuild would likely be your best bet. What I did was find a bracket that would fit the mounting holes and installed a much less expensive regular two pole coil in the same fire wall hole. There was room to splice a wire to the the shielded ignition wire. These brackets occasionally come up on Ebay as they were used by Chrysler and possibly others as well. I may even have one in my parts bin but will have to look around and see but I have seen them for sale quite often.

OK so I adjusted the mechanical linkage exactly how the manual says, I was not getting an upshift from D' ...so I adjusted my valve body throttle valve screw with information from PP.

Now for the first time in 20 years this car is upshting!!

However it has a slight rattle type noise from the front pum/torque converter area....any ideas guys?

Back to topic...

Sadly, the recommended solution doesn't apply to Executive hardtops (and others, too, BTW).

Anyway, it looks very good in this application (and I refer to the belt

Eric,

"Look and feel stock"? If they all looked like that stock, there wouldn't be any need for "enhancements"! And I leave you with this thought.......

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Thursday 11th June 2009

Arrived at the workshop expecting to get into Marine Cleaning and Metal Readying yesterdays cleaned parts. Instead was met by the smell of burning rubber and John under Big Red oxy torch in hand heating up the left rear spring front bolt and rubbers. When I left yesterday Wade was working on the right rear spring front and saying depending on how co-operative things were the "hot spanner" option could well come into play. Apparently it was and the left was also recalcitrant today. Next, the left rear spring hanger received the same treatment although after the heat treatment the bolt came out fairly easily. Because the parts taken out needed cleaning and eventually painting I concentrated on that and got the bolts, nuts and shackles cleaned up. But the screw bolt that passes through the screwed bush on the left side is badly worn and will need replacement as it's quite noticeable. The right side one is worn a little but looks quite useable. On the way home I dropped Wade off with the offending bolt to see Ivan to determine if a new one can be made because Wade believes replacements aren't available from Kanters or Max. Any ideas where these might be sourced?

But before dropping Wade off, Noel dropped in to pick up the tow rope Peter had lent Wade in case it was needed on the trip home from Yarrawonga in Old Blue, although it wasn't! Noel also dropped in a part he wants Wade to fit to his '39 when he brings it over soon. And I remembered to ask Wade if he'd taken any pic's of the run and was disappointed to learn the answer was no. Apparently 14 cars went and the one of interest to me was the other '41 coupe in Oz, which I'd like to see in the metal. Among other things, it has the running board delete option and has been converted to RHD using a Holden(The local GM brand) steering box because there aren't any RHD '41 steering boxes in Oz. There's a few pic's of the other '41 Coupe from some I was sent last year. Wade also took the starter motor out of Old Blue as he thinks this could be the problem and disassembled it found worn brushes. Wade has another starter on the shelf but he'll have to check that for compatability as it's an Autolite that came out of Old Blue.

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Send me an email (axmanj@170220.com) and picture reference and I'll check in my stuff I have pulled off my 1936 120B (if the same); sorry, haven't learned enough yet to be dangerous about these cars. I am going with a 58 amp Alternator upgrade on my restoration..even though the originality police will probably hunt me down for a ticket...but I have spent too many years following the rules of OEM on these functional items and now more into upgrading with improved technology for a driver only.

While the LF was just crusty and badly pitted, the RF deserves it's own post. It was completely seized. Even standing on the pedal, it still wouldn't come apart. Only thing that would was the hard line end of the brake hose and even that with visegrips. Brought hose and cyl assembly in and, with a little heat and bench vise, got the hose free from the cyl. Hose was completely blocked so I replaced it. Pumped some fluid through to make sure hard line wasn't blocked. Couldn't get cyl apart in vise without damaging the pistons, so I put it and the hose back on the car. I pumped up the power bleeder and stomped brake pedal and it finally freed one side. The other had to be knocked out with a large punch. Oddly enough, this one had the least amount of pitting so it honed out easily. I put the brakes back together and bled whole system till fluid ran clear from all 4 wheels. The car now stops as it should, pedal is good and all 4 brakes now work. Now, with a little more electrical work, it'll be ready to drive soon.

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This is on a 1951 300 - correct?
Do you know if the conversion was done using the 1952 to 1954 Packard power steering setup or some other system. The linkage for the Packard system is all completely different between manual and power steering except for the outer tie rod ends and connecting sleeves. The steering box for power steering also has a different ratio with fewer turns lock to lock. You may need to change all these parts back in order to return to the manual system.