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Chad,

I'll take that as a compliment, although I'm not really sure I want to be loved as a loonie!

Oz You may be "loonie" but we love ya! In that "packard family" kinda way at least! lol welcom to the site T&j. the only thing i would add to Eric's idea is to check the shock on that side. i had a parts car that the shock was rusted to the point that it froze up. and once it was moved off the hill it had set on, it set funny like that. Hopefully since yours has been inside its more along the lines of what Eric's problem was.

There is also a STRONG POSSIBILITY that hte dash sw. was also connected to the headlite dip sw..

This is due to turning off the fog lites when the Brite headlites are on.

MOMENTARILY apply current tot he relay post that goes to the sw. If the test lites lite up then the dash sw. will need a battery feed wire going to the "BAT" terminal of the sw. and one of the other "blank" terminals of sw will go to the relay terminal for the sw.

The Packard also used a gear type pump but at about double the pressure if I did the conversion right. 200-250 PSI. The prewar tops were vacuum but post war all were hydraulic. Windows and seats too until 54. 55-56 the top used the reversible pump motor and electric motors for rest. Picture shows the type gear pump used. Packard used mostly the Dura pump rather than Moraine but essentially same workings.

I had the brake fluid setup in a 54 Pacific and sympathize about the leaks. Have read that some have converted to trans fluid or power steering fluid to eliminate that problem.

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I would run a wire from your power source to the "BATT". terminal. One or probably both of the other terminals are for connecting to the lights possibly one for each light as it was probably intended for a non relay application. Neither of the them should be grounded. Why not hook up a power wire to the 'Batt" terminal and using a test light or multi meter see which terminal receives power when the switch is turn on? When you determine that run a wire from there to the relay.

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Off the top of my head there is at least 2wo different ways this can work.

FIRST. lets DISregard the switch and concentrate on the relay.
Connect the relay as u described above but NOT to the sw.
Do NOT connect the fog lites to the relay but rather connect two test lites to the fog lite posts on the relay instead. (this is a safety precaustion)
Now, is there current to the post of the relay that goes to the sw. ???
If answer is no then see my next post below.
If answer is YES, then MOMMENTARILY ground that same post to see if the test lites lite up. If they lite up then the SWITCH on the dash is only used to ground the circuit. Which means that the post on the relay should go to "BAT" on the sw. and one of the other posts of sw. go to ground.

HOW MANY POSITIONS DOES THE sw. have??? NOT terminals. POSITIONS. I'm guessing 3hree.


If the obove does not work then we'll explore another possibility.

PICTURE OF BACK OF SWITCH AND RELAY

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to clarify my inquiry:
1. the fog lights are original to the car but never hooked-up
2. The relay is a BOSCH 6 volt and it has five terminals: one for the power from battery, two go to the fog lights, one is to ground the relay, and the last goes to the switch.
I am trying to include pictures of the relay and switch.
2. The switch has three terminals: one marked BATT, the other two blank. It has a 20 amp fuse as part of it. It screws down behind the dashboard.

My questions: the lead that goes from the relay to the switch, which terminal do I attach it to? BATT or one of the blank ones. Secondly, where do I connect the other lead from the switch, does it just need to ground to complete the circuit or what else?

I sure appreciate all this advise! AND ALL INCLUDED IN THE PRICE OF ADMISSION!

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The Lancia Delta looks like a Nissan Murano with a poorly copied front clip and grille from a late 90's Pontiac.

First picture 2009 CTS, last three 2010 STX Crossover.

John F. Shireman

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