The clutch plate should have its springs away from the flywheel. Am a bit baffled by the question as any clutch I've seen can not even be assembled the wrong way round as the springs will foul the flywheel to crankshaft bolts. Can you post a photo of yours?

Geez, mellow out guys. Look at the pictures. The car has already been picked over, probably so someone could restore their roadster. We got no carb, no lifters, no bumpers, no glass no roof and on and on. Let him do what he likes with the thing. There are more than enough restored ones to go around.

Let's do a little demographic study. What percentage of Packard owners are in their 70s? And eighties? I would guess half of all the owners that I know will no longer be able to drive in 15 years. The market will be awash with cars that are poignantly irrelevant to the coming generations.

I think we all love the quality, the style, the performance, and the history that Packard represents. We'd better be on our toes to make whatever portion of that heritage as accessible as possible to younger folks. I maintain that any interest in the cars, even if I don't agree with the outcome, is preferable to no interest.

I need to get back to work now--on a Packard that was MODIFIED in the early fifties--but would like to address this subject some more.

The starter is engaged in the flywheel and will remain so til the engine starts and kicks the Bendix back. That is your noise. There is nothing in the Ultra that will make a noise like that unless it were thoroughly toasted already.

Mousies can't get into Ultras unless the filler cap was left off as the vent and weep holes are too small even for them.

If you have a NAPA store nearby, ask for a gallon of 65-201 which will give you the GL-1 he was mentioning. Do NOT use it in your rear axle, however. Get 80W-90 GL-4 for that.

Just saw Transformers 3 and noticed that a few of the scenes had Packard Factory Ruins as a background. Or some other ruined Albert Kahn building.

Bottom should be straight and the same cross section as the rest. Have straightened these by forcing different sized sockets through the pranged portion.

I'll happily sell you the parts you need to install the manual brake; I probably have 3 or 4 sets available. PM me for details. It's not all that hard. Does your car have Ultra? Or, I could rebuild your Treadlevac for you. Even easier.

Traveling just now and for a change not within reaching distance of of a straight eight, but I believe many of the straight eight heads have CL cast on them. Or am I crazy? How odd they would have farmed these out and cast other things in house.

I only put the Lucas in the tired automatics, otherwise nothing, I add nothing to the engine oil; I find now that my cars are all switched to Rotella and have some time with it they are running better than they have in twenty years.

Your 52 will be pleased as punch to run on regular without ethanol. Avoid mixing up cocktails of additives as it seems some combinations are hard on the fuel system components.

In all but 40 years of driving Packards, and twenty years of wrenching on them full time I have settled on the following regimen for the "collector cars" I drive regularly (my newest car is a 63), and they all seem to like it right well.

Rotella 20W-50 oil
Type "F" trans fluid plus Lucas if the trans is a "groaner".
Standard brake fluid to be changed every 2 years or so.

Your idea to establish a baseline is a good one, and once you have gone through the car, you will find that it requires very little attention.