When I was in High school I worked a little at a tire retreading shop [nasty place] and I would say that this has the same feel as that rubber, you can see on the back where the rubber flowed into various holes and has a molded look.

I took some pictures after several request.

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Hi all, I'm restoring a '39 110 4dr. it's a lot of work but is coming along great. I got to the point of needing to recover the running boards and had read many threads on the subject. My boards were not rusted through and generally the metal was in good shape but all of the covering was gone. I decided to go the truck bed liner route, had it sprayed on and sanded it for about two weeks, The more I looked at it the less I liked it and after attending the great Packard show in Salado in April, I knew there was only one route for me. I had the bedliner blasted off and sent the boards out to Hunnley Acroff, they were returned today after only 4 weeks, the workmanship was outstanding and I am completely happy in my decision. The only real point of this post is to acknowledge great workmanship by Mr. Acroff and to tell others that while it is a good bit more money than bedliner, the end results are incomparable.

Terry is great, he did my brakes and put in a new wiring harness, he is a wonderful asset for the Packard community.

My 1939 110 4dr. has the original rear compartment mat in it. I'm attaching a couple of pictures [hopefully] that may help. The material is a heavy layered press board/tar with a leather grain surface. This car has always been in my family and I believe this to be original.

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I'm not completely sure about your 37 but I just redid the whole front end on my 39. I believe you can change the center pin without pulling the radiator, on my car it went in from the bottom. I got the nut loose from the top but I had read that on cars where the motor mounts have sagged it made for a real close fit. My pin was completely frozen and required grinding the nut side off and then tapping it down from the top. It was a ton of work but well worth it, the car drives great now. If yours is frozen that hard you will have to pull the grill shell and radiator to be able to get at it.

I just finished the front end on my 1939 Packard Six and had exactly the same issue. I had bought a complete front end kit from Kanter, King pins, tie rod ends both inner and outer, I replaced my center steering bushing / bolt and serviced the drag link. I put new spring pads on the top and bottom of the original springs, new upper shock rubber bushings and bolts and new alignment bushings. A ton of work but now the car drives so great. But, when I first dropped the car on the ground the tie rods rubbed hard on the bottom of the slots, like yours. I could not figure it out, swapped several things around and consulted with a front end guy, my cure was that I heated the steering arms up by the spindle and raised them about 1/2". I believe that the new tie rods are taller than the originals but I looked at a couple of other brands and they all measured the same. I'll be interested to follow this.

Great job on the disc brakes. Would you mind telling what rotors, calipers and bearings were used for this?

Hello all again. I need to remove my drivers side door on my 1939 110 4 door car. The three Phillips head screws at the bottom seem unmovable, is removing these the only way or am I missing something else. I got the top three bolts out, I have the door supported well.
Thanks,

Thanks, I had not even thought to look for new rivets yet so I'll be right on that. The knowledge from this board is so helpful.