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Hi ,for better or worse just put a Chrysler 518 a trans in my 52 200
It has 2 12 v electric switches ,that I tried to power using a module that supplied 12 v neg rom 6 v pos system it heated up today and the car didn't know how to shift itself
Hmmmm
So I'll maby go 12 v and skip the module
So this is probably an old issue for 6- 12 v conversion
I can get a 12 v neg power gen
A 12 v pertronix drop in and a 12 v coil
What about my starter?
Where do you put the resister for the dash ?
Also had a fresh rebuild now overheated
I had the valves adjusted
The thermostat works
the radiators recored
I replaced the heat tube
There's a 288 head
There's a 2 carb intake ,too lean and hot?

As there were several recent posts regarding original 6v starters cracking the nose casting and the common theme was all the cars had been converted to 12v I would have the starter converted to 12v if that is the way you decide to go.

In addition to all new bulbs, you will also need a new solenoid and the heater blower needs a resistor or a 12v motor. Horns will be loud but probably will survive. Relay may need to change though. The coil needs a ballast resistor unless the Pertronix takes care of that. Gauges are a question as to whether the original 51-3 instrument regulator will work with 12v or if you need the 54-6 version. You can get the Runtz solid state converters for the gauges but I believe you will need one of those for each gauge. Radio is another item. By the time you get all the necessary things changed or adapted it may be easier to buy a different module for the transmission or else go ahead and convert but get a 12 to 6v module and split the system keeping most of the car at 6v and only using the 12v for starting, ignition and the trans.

What kind of module did you use for the transmission? Was the amperage high enough and was it rated for operating coils and solenoids and motors or was it the type that only works radios and other non inductive or non surge loads?

Hi I used a ultra torc 11 adaptor for the 727 then went a step further and put in the overdrive 518 so it has two pressure switches ( hydrolic)
The two switches lock the torc converter and
Put in the overdrive
They are 12 v neg gr switches
I used this module to isolate and sply the 12 v from my 6 v system
Www.6 to 12 volt.com they are for 12 v accessories like a sound system
I think ,my electrician hooked it up wrong
It's warm with the car off
Which in my book means it's got to be shorted ,
Alto the car didn't know which gear to be in in was hopping all over the place
Then I over heated and don't know of that was related or because of a new rebuild or what , ! Quite a day
So I thought I would abandon the converter and go to 12 v
So I could get a power gen , a new pertronix for 12 v neg
Take my packard starter to the starter shop?
Get a 12 v solenoid for it ,will it run backwards if it's neg ground.?

And resisters for the dash gauges . Then I can just power up the switches w 12 v and maby she'll fly

What commands the switches to activate? I would imagine something has to tell the transmission the cars speed and the appropriate time to lock the converter or go into OD. Is that all internal in the trans and it only needs voltage or does an external module make those decisions. I would think the vacuum switch is the equivalent of throttle linkage and used for smoothness and kickdown so a separate item.

I remember KevinAZ mentioned a TCI control module in conjunction with his GM 4L60 conversion. His car was already 12v so I don't believe it was strictly a power converter. Does the Chrysler transmission need something similar.

Thanks for the thoughts
I was under the car yesterday and realized the mechanic had hooked up the pressure switches to the wrong pressure tap on the transmission ,according to the instruction sheet for the swap plus did some creative wiring not same as supplied diagram

I did a double swap ,the ultramatic to Chrysler 727 is a a popular mod ,
Then one step extra to the OD Chrysler 518
The 727 to 518 is popular also to get the OD and torque converter lock up so I went ultramatic to 518 !
Two switches run by pressure off of one tap (#4] each actuate sat a different hydrolic pressure
And are supplied voltage (12v)
The set up has a vacumb switch which will only send the power if there's vacumb which I borrowed at the base of one of the carbs
I'll go to 12 v to power the switches for the trans swap and re plumb to the propped tap the fellow used the #3 tap I don't know if this is actually different but I'll try to hook it up to the right thing and reassess

Is there a HEI distributer that would drop in to the thunderbolt ? I have a " early 8 cylinder delco system currently with a pertronix point eliminator
I think my overheat may have been a stuck thermostat, I took it out for now
And have crossed fingers

Steve, you're pretty well committed to it now, but I wonder why? The Ultramatic is extremely reliable and long-lived behind the in-line 8 cylinder engines and those cars can cruise all day long at 70 mph with the standard 3.54 rear axle. Ross Miller can certainly attest to that!

I think those power inverters work best when they are hooked up to a motorcycle or lawn mower battery in the trunk. Then if the transmission or radio is drawing 6 amps (36 watts) the inverter is maintaining the power supply. I guess it depends on whether the unit has an internal voltage regulator. For the trans, if there is a sudden power draw the battery will supply it and the inverter will then charge the battery.