Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I wasn't holding much hope and I was correct. This one's not even a good core. I've been trying to unstick the piston but it's made out of some sort of indestructium that doesn't like water. It looks pot metal, acts like cast aluminum, but it's harder than titanium. Won't drill. Looks like there's a sleeve in there, too, but I don't see sleeves in any of the rebuild kits???
Is there a simple answer to this or does everyone just pay the exorbitant fee for a rebuilt?
I've looked at thousands of pictures of cylinders and there's just nothing like this original, so it's creatively adapt or not? They have these modern boosterless boosters that might work with some fab. The cost is about the same. I don't like the idea to spend the same amount of money to acheive mediocre mechanical brakes. I don't like the idea of changing the pedal, to the firewall down type either, but that's the simplest (hotrodders) method of choice. There's not much room in there for a 7-8" booster, either and there only about 12-15" in length, if you shorten the push rod.
Any ideas? Flintstone brakes???

look up white post restorations, send then your core and have a brass sleeve installed and then put a new ket in and you are good to go. it is not cheap to do but safety first. good luck dell

You can usually punch the piston out by running a stout pin punch in from the front. Try a little heat.

Kanter has had those cylinders repopped if your is trashed. Or you could make up a little flat adapter plate and use the 51-54 style available about 100 places on ebay or Rock Auto for less than $60.

The non assisted brakes on those cars work just fine. No need to add the complexity of a booster. Making the standard brakes work properly will be way cheaper.

IIRC, one poster has a power unit mounted in the original frame location. Can't remember his year but believe it is a pre 40 model so I think it can be done -- don't know exactly how he did it though. With some changes in the pedal and linkage to duplicate the V8 manual setup, a universal under floor booster kit might be able to point and mount rearward -- but would require the rod passing thru the rear trans support piece.

Other than that, to stick with standard brakes, I believe the options are limited in finding a new master in the original style. Because of the pre 51 mounting, don't think any parts stores have them. Kanter repro'd masters a few years back because of the unavailability. Whether yours could be re-sleeved is unknown but cost would probably be about the same as the repro.

Rock Auto, '51 master(dorman) - $70 shipped, no core charge, new connecting rod, something I can work with until I decide the future direction. If too far off, ship it back. It looks like the 3rd hole is there just not drilled and tapped. If I go the original route, I can get this one rebuilt or buy another.
ps: I tried a punch and the end broke off in the piston and a chisel, that's why I resorted to drilling. I tried pushing a bolt thru the front with my big ol vise and it wouldn't budge. That thing will crush anything. I can put whole drive shafts in it. I'm about 50-50 putting torch heat on old cast.

I also went with White Post Restorations sent them my Master and four brake cylinders. I wanted to keep all original parts on the car. Got them back and they looked brand new with a lifetime warranty and since I had them do all at the same time they didn't charge for the S/H.
Wes

Update: A local Hudson guy recommended Apple Hydraulics. I contacted and they can re/sleeve/build even frozen. He couldn't come up with a cap, so I found a NOS one, for $10, at a vintageFord/Merc place that should fit. It was $15 to buy the Wagner catalog download, so I gambled.
Waiting on Rock Auto.
Checked White Post website, but didn't contact, they didn't post pricing. Doubt will be much different, a To Do.
Agree, I don't like to rebuild wheel cylinders for what they cost new, bit since U can't get them, it's better to ship off.
This week: put up on stands, cut out truck pan, start gas tank fab, pull the wheels, inspect rest of wheel systems. I'd like to wait til it's off the frame to do brake lines. They have to come off anyway for frame powder coat.

I was real optimistic, up until about 1 PM today, that the '51 master would work. I was even going to post my bracket design so you wouldn't have to start from scratch.
After I spent the morning fabbing up the brackets and fitting to get the alignment right, I find the '51 cylinder casting is a mere 3/8" longer and a bit wider due to the mounting bolt flats. The mounting bolts are also higher and high enough they interfere with the shift lever, if you move it back 3/8" to clear the steering box in order to attach the brake lines. Looks like the frame, shift lever, and steering box was designed around the original master.
So this option is not going to work properly aligned at least on this car with this master (M3081). I'll send it back. Not saying it can't be done, I don't see a clean solution that'll be road worthy.
So I'm back to a rebuilt/repop only option. After scrutinizing my casting, I'm not sure it's worth resleeving. I'll send it in and let them decide.
Started on the wheels, and the linings/springs look almost new, so it had a brake job sometime just before it ran aground.