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Can anyone give me a link to a pressurized brake bleeder for my 1951 200?

In 30 years of Packard service have not bothered with one yet. We are talking a 15 minute job on your own, perhaps longer if someone helps you.

Find a piece of rubber tubing that fits snuggly over the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of it in a bit of brake fluid--I use an old peanut butter jar (crunchy, of course) with a little wire hook I can hang onto the suspension.

Fill the reservoir, open the furthest bleeder, and pump the pedal no more than 8 times without refilling. If the system is empty the right rear will need 12 strokes or so to bleed out. The others much less. There is no need to open and close bleeders whilst pumping; there is a built in check valve on the MC to take care of that. After I'm done I like to press the pedal several strokes firmly to check for leaks and also to collect any stray bubbles. I finish up by going around and "burping" each of the cylinders about a half stroke.

If there is a check valve, how does the pressure release when the pedal is released?

It is spring loaded to provide a low ( 5-7 psi) residual pressure in the lines when the pedal is released. Disc brake cars don't usually have this, though the above procedure works well for for them also if the master has been bench bled.

I haven't been able to get the brakes to harden-up correctly. I installed a new master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake lines and brake hoses. It seems to harden up but its right at the floor. I've had my son call-out when to open/close when he's pumping. I'm about to disconnect all brake lines, plug them with inverted flare plugs and see how the master acts alone. I'll then add back individual wheels and test the master with that wheel only, 4 times.

If you have the Packard master or a suitable single piston replacement I haven't heard of any significant bleed issues but I did have a heck of a time bleeding a system using a dual master during one of my experiments with a modern booster setup. Had to remove that master cyl and pre-bleed it on the bench along with some manipulation to get a trapped air bubble to move where it could be expelled. I suppose it is possible a single piston unit could have a similar problem.

I have a simple pressure bleeder that uses spare tire pressure as the pressure source. I made my own pressure bleeder cap from an old mc cap. Weld the vents closed and drill a hole for the hose from your pressure bleeder. There you go.

I shouldn't have thrown out the old MC including the cap.

I started the procedure I described and found that the right front brake let the pedal go past the floor. I took off the drum and inspected everything. It was OK but the star adjustment was bottomed-out. I put the drum back on and saw that the drum/shoe clearance was about 3/16". I adjusted the star and cam to spec. The pedal goes about 40% of the way down and is hard as a rock.

I need to hook-up the rear brakes and adjust the hand brake. I should be driving by tomorrow or NLT Saturday.

Congrats on finding the problem! There is an upper adjustment on each brake drum that you can adjust too.