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could anyone direct me to a good post about 6 to 12 v conversion?

You might do a Google search for "6 to 12volt conversion" Numerous articles and a few videos popped up. The one from ebay guides pertaining to a 55 Ford looked halfway decent. It covered about all the basics you need to look at or do.

12-volt conversion requires a few relatively simple steps in theory. You'll need to:
-Change all light bulbs (Use a bulb interchange chart like this one from Wagner to find 12v equivalents).
-Add a ballast resistor to the ignition system to maintain 6v at the coil.
-Fabricate an alternator bracket, select your alternator.
-Eliminate the existing voltage regulator
-Change the radio to a 12-volt model (or have it rebuilt for 12v)
-Change the horns (may or may not be required depending on which horns you have)
-Select your method of coping with gauge voltage differences (usually involves adding a different instrument cluster voltage regulator to step-down the voltage)
-Change electro-hydraulic pump motor (or have it re-wound for 12v), if you have that system
-Change the flasher unit to 12v
-Have the heater motor rebuilt for 12v
-Etc.


My question, though, is why? Most of the time, people seem to want to convert to 12 volts to rectify an issue (slow cranking, dim lights, batteries which frequently go dead), when in fact the problem is with a faulty component, not the operating voltage of the car itself. If your starter's slow, have it checked and rebuilt, if your generator isn't charging the battery, check your voltage regulator and your generator, if your lights are dim, check for bad grounds, and so on. 12-volt lights may be brighter on a candlepower basis, but they don't actually help you see further down the road-- the DOT-mandated beam pattern is responsible for that.

Modern Air Conditioning is not available in 6 volt models.

Presumably a 12 volt clutch and blower could be converted...but by whom?

As I drive by you with my windows closed on the hottest day of the year...

6 to 12 conversions are often done due to availability of 6v replcaement parts.

Some of us have enuf NOS and NORs 6v parts to supply an entire used car lot. In my case i have every 6v part except a 6v special application/sized battery. The most recent battery repops have become such poor quality that i was forced into a 12v conversion only for the sake of a RELIABLE battery that would last more than 5 months.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a GOOD 6v system. Note i said a GOOD 6v system which implies GOOD 6v replacement parts. Some are good. Some are not good.

So let anyone that wants to argue then develope a list of BRANDS AND SUPPLIERS of 6v repop parts that are good parts and which are not goood parts. Such a list that everyone and anyone can contribute their experiences to.

I've likewise had poor experience with some of the "boutique" batteries, specifically the Group 60 12-volt, but it shouldn't be a problem getting a quality 6-volt battery for most applications. Both NAPA and AC/Delco still offer them is many sizes and 6-8 years of service life seems to be the norm. AC/Delco still manufactures, and I believe NAPA batteries are made by Johnson Controls - they and AC are the only 2 major lead/acid battery manufacturers in the US today.

O_D, are Exide and Continental separate battery manufactures or made by AC and/or Johnson Controls. I recently bought a battery for my '47 Clipper at Tractor Supply and it has an Exide label on it. The previous battery I bought at NAPA and they said theirs are made by Continental.

(o{}o)

I know that Exide no longer makes their own batteries, not sure who makes Continental. My comments were based on a recent article in one of the auto industry publications that said only Johnson Controls and AC/Delco remain in the lead/acid battery manufacturing business, though I guess that doesn't preclude a couple of very small players in the business. As I understand the business from what I've read, not even Interstate makes their own batteries. But I presume that different private label batteries from one of the makers don't necessarily share the same internal specs, I presume they're made to the buyers's specifications.

I seem to recall a fairly recent article in Skinned Knuckles on the topic that discussed which battery labels were made by whom, but I don't think I saved that issue.

The problem is not just 'boutique' batteries. NON-Packard applications I (as well as many others) have had repop coil, bulb and other parts problems spanning Indian, Cushman, Ferguson, Willy's MB's and the list goes on and on and on. Some repop's are great. Some are strictly worthless shit.
The question is: WHICH ARE THE GOOD ONES!!!!!!???? Five years from now the it mite all change again.

A few problems with 12v parts here and there too but to a much lesser extent.

I've had no problems with ignition or electrical parts from NAPA or any of the other majors. Stick with Echlin from NAPA and Standard Ignition and I'd be surprised if you have any issues. I've not had any experience with new bulbs, old stock bulbs are still out there is huge abundance. I pretty keep a good stock of Mazda and GE auto bulbs from the local flea antique auto flea markets.

Just what specific electrical parts ARE you having problems with?