Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Trying to remove the speedometer cable so I can clean and lube it. The problem is I don't know how to take it out of the rubber mount in the firewall.
After that I'm going to try and remove the Speedometer it's self and lube also. So any helpful information would be greatly appreciated.
And while I'm here I might as well do the Overdrive cable.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (116.75 KB)


  (192.61 KB)

Can't speak to the original grommet as mine was missing. Looking at all the cracks yours may be in bad shape and somewhat hard so it can't or won't flex. With the Steele repro the new rubber is flexible enough the small nut on the speedo end will pull thru. Same with the OD cable if you remove the clevis from the rod on trans end and pull that end thru the rubber. As I recall the temp bulb, nut and tube also goes thru the grommet.

On your speedo issues from the other thread, by all means lube the bushing via the oil hole and try to work some oil in the space between the rotating collar and the casting. Inside, I found the old grease on the gear train going to the odometer wheels was hard as a rock and even though the magnet was rotating OK, the hard grease was preventing the cup from moving.

One more thing on the grommet. Has been awhile but I think I used some spray silicone on the cables to help the ends slide thru the grommet.

It is not necessary to remove the sheath and center cable to clean and lube it. Unscrew from speedo, lower the cable assb and pull the central cable out of the sheath.
Be careful, the cable can be very greasy and stain the upholstery...Clean the center cable in a suitable petroleum solvent, then reinsert it into the sheath. Much of the old grease will come out when you remove the cable again. Then put some solvent into an oiling nozzle container and shoot some down the sheath.

To lube it, get a tube of graphite, plain graphite and shoot some down the sheath. Do not use and oil/grease.. Oil and grease get thick when cold and will hamper the workings of the cable, graphite is not thickened by low temperature.

With the cable off the speedo, get a very small oil can with nozzle or a wooden match stick, dip in oil until you get one drop on the end, then put it in the oil hole just above the speedo/cable junction. It's a bear to find, good luck.


Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

Thanks James, I was looking at cleaning up the sheath because it has a little surface rust on it. And you say to use graphite, okay I myself was going to use Lithium Grease. So Graphite it is, if I can find some.
Looking at the back of my spare Speedometer, I found an opening at the 9 o'clock position. But it doesn't look like it will take oil, but I will try.
So I'll leave the speedometer in the rubber grommet and just clean it up and put it back.
Thanks!
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (62.53 KB)


  (112.27 KB)


  (134.78 KB)

I usually recommend light oil on speedometer cables, unless there are plastics involved.

Regarding the magnet shaft oil reserve, this model requires the flat plate on rear to be removed to allow access to the brass plug of the oil reservoir. You can do this by removing the two slotted screws. So long as the faceplate bezel is still attached, the frame will be held in place but don't shake the unit around.

Best practice would be to remove the felt wick once the brass plug is removed. Inspect to see how dirty or if still holding any oil. If still wet, then just add few drops of oil. If dry, clean the felt wick with penetrating oil and feed the reservoir some also while rotating the input. WHen I service units, I do this until clean penetrating oil comes out around the input shaft bushing. I then put clean wick back in and top off with heavier oil.

Hope this helps,
Pat
Packard Owner
Owner, Bill's Speedometer Shop

Years ago when I was working at an auto electric and speedo shop we used a light Lubriplate white grease on the speedo cable. We would remove and clean off the cable or install a new one. Only the first two-thirds of the cable were lightly lubed as the grease will work its way up the cable housing. My experience.

Lots of debate on the proper lube for speedo cables.
I'd look in the service manual first. Then period Motors or similar auto manuals for documentation.
If it has an "oiler" and "felt wick" it's correct to suspect oil is proper as the speedoman sed.

I know the Cads don't recommend graphite, gets up in the "clock" and they used to sell a GM cable luber, I had one, that had white lithium grease in it. But that was later vintage well after Packard. Other's swear by graphite, so choose accordingly.
Petrified grommets are pretty common. I'd replace, as you want to seal out the engine vapors. CO is a silent killer.

I used white Lubriplate on my '39 a couple years ago and lubed the speedo while I had the dash out for woodgraining and it was easy to get to the speedometer.

Runs dead quiet.

If you want a small amount of powdered graphite, PM your mailing address and I'll send you some. Years ago the company I worked for scrapped a (very) old tanker and before it went to the knackers I picked up a 5 lb. can of powdered graphite, about three lifetimes supply. I can spare enough to lube a few speedometer cables.

Jim/KB1MCV

Thanks to everyones input, a lot of good information here from so many knowledgeable people. So I guess the next step will be to remove the Speedometer. Besides not reading correct, the reset button doesn't work also.
Any easy way to remove it?
Thanks!
Wes