Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

OK Guys...here's the problem. My 56 Patrician today repeated a strange syndrome I have witnessed before: When I turned the starter, ALL power in the car went out. I now know how to "fix" this problem temporarily but not for good. Once I take the positive cable off the battery and reconnect it, everything is fine right down to the "Dual Safety Courtesy Lights". Sometimes it is months before she acts up again. Mind you, she has done this while under power or at rest when being started.

I am no mechanic and certainly am no electrical engineer but I wondered if this may have anything to do with a bad ballast resistor? I do remember many years ago a similar problem in my 55 Clipper Constellation and after replacing the resistor, I never encountered the problem again.

I'm just putting this out there for some of you who know much more than I.

Sounds like oxidation of the lead on the battery connections. I'd suggest a good cleaning of the battery posts and cable ends.

Also be sure that when you tighten the battery cable ends, the "ears" don't close, if they do you may have a less than secure connection.

When you say ALL and that includes the horn, then it almost has to be a battery or battery cable connection problem.

The battery connects to solenoid and a single wire off that same connection feeds the horn relay directly and branches via a splice to ammeter where other items are directly fed.

While it is conceivable the ammeter might have a loose connection or internal problem possibly causing the issue, the horn should not be affected. I would check the ammeter connections because loose connections are a known issue on other years but doesn't really fit the symptom. If connections are OK, I would strongly suspect something in the battery or cable which your working with the cable moves and reconnects.

If it were only ign switch related items, that intermittent power problem is a classic failing switch which gets jarred and makes contact again.

The ballast resistor is fed off the ign switch and only feeds the coil. It's failure should not affect any of the directly connected items.

It has to be bad battery cable conexion or bad battery.

Are u using one of those "green Knob" quik disconnects on the battery??? If so then that mite be the problem.

Otherwise, next time it happens try tapping on side of battery with a small piece of wood.

Thanks so much everyone...the battery (and ground cable) are almost new and posts are very clean, but we'll go through all these items again. I don't understand how the car would do this standing still if indeed there is a loose connection. In the middle of starting the car, everything turned off...including horn and every other electrically-driven item.

Also the bolt and area where ground connects to block. Any thing that increases resistance can also increase heat to the point expansion or oxidation can do a job on the connection.

Esquireman -

Ballast resistor is normally (and only) bypassed during cranking. If that circuit were open, the engine would crank and fire over, but die as soon as the ignition switch was released from the starting position. Shorted, and you'd end up with burned points.

Typically, when you turn the key to engage the starting system in any automobile, all other electrical circuits are normally disabled - EXCEPT for essentials, like exterior lamps and horn, which are purposely fed from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid. The intent is to divert as much power as possible to the starter during cranking.

If you turn the key and nothing happens, then lose power to "all" circuits when you release it, I'd first suspect an ignition switch problem.

However, that you are able to restore power simply by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery makes me wonder if some relay or solenoid might be locked up, electrically, perhaps causing problems.

I'd start looking at the condition of the connections at the starter solenoid. Then, consider the solenoid switch itself. You might find some other wiring issues, as well.

It's not easy to diagnose such problems remotely. Helps for you to have a simple 12V test light and follow the relevant circuits in the wiring diagrams to check for presence of power at various terminals. Try to take things a step at a time and report back with your observations.

Brian brings up a point. While I can't think of anything stock that could lock up and cause the problem since the battery cable directly feeds the rest of the car at the starter solenoid connection without going thru any relays, any non stock item such as a disconnect switch or anti-theft device certainly could.

Gents...I think we have diagnosed and corrected the problem. Alas, the new battery has conversion posts to make it a top mount and we found the positive post (screw-on) to be loose! Everything seems to work fine now...except my pushbutton transmission. We checked fluid leve, rocked the car slightly, and everything else and she won't budge (just rebuilt by John Lauter). She is going through the gears as the back up lights come on in reverse, etc. Oh well, this hasn't been my week...in addition after topping off brake fluid in my 66 Imperial, I have no brakes!

Do you hear the motor running and any clicking of detents as you go thru the gears? If running and no clicks, check the setscrew at the motor sector to shaft. If that's OK and you hear detents, check the entire assy alignment so ensure the manual valve is fully in detent. If there is any slop finding a detent, then check the pot metal lever inside to the manual valve. Randy has had some recent experience with the loose lever problem. The small pin connecting the lever to the valve is also not above suspicion as is a plug on the detent assy falling out resulting in low or no pressures. Both have been recent issues for others.

If you don't hear the motor running then another issue entirely.