Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Here is mine,on the red towel,
and then the one sold on e-bay

mine has the corner braces cut. Should I try to add them back? How would you do that?

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Kent-Moore-Vibration-Damper-Remover-Replacer-Tool-1956-Studebaker-Golden-Hawk-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/LR8AAMXQI5tRgW0E/$(KGrHqJ,!lQFF8gV05qbBRgW0EJGFQ~~60_57.JPG

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I'm a bit confused. Which puller is the correct Kent-Moore tool and what is the other tool that is not the correct Kent-more tool????

I can help you with this if you want to add them back.

Quote:

If your tool is a steel forging I'd think a welding shop could cut triangles and attach them. Maybe they could heat and straighten the bends and then weld in one or two reinforcements. Looking at the 55 SM It looks as if there is a small space available for a reinforcement before it would hit the outer diameter. Maybe you could slide it on and get a rough measurement of how big it could be. Perhaps two on each side at the very outside edges. If the tool is cast then I have no suggestions.

They are both the same Kent Moore tool as shown in the service manual. What I did not know was that the triangle bracing on mine was ground out, until I saw the one on E-bay. See figure 16 of the engine section of the 55-56 service manualhttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5556/Sect09_Engine.pdf

HH
I think that the tool is cast, what problems does that pose?

I also notice that I am missing what looks like a sleeve, or J-5992-4 in figure 21 of the engine section, page 13. It is on the E-Bay tool.

Looks like someone ground off those braces to use on a large diameter damper.

Quote:

I'm not sure it does cause a problem. It just seemed to me the photos appear to indicate that there is a crack on the curve. Am about the last to know anything about metallurgy but have always been under the impression that once cracked it's kind of hit or miss on how successful a repair would be on a casting. On a forging or solid bent steel I would think it could have a bead welded across but not sure on a casting.

Cast iron's virtue as a structural material is when it's under compression, it's an extremely poor choice (far to brittle) for anything that would be under tensile force such as this tool. I suggest it's probably cast steel if not a forging.

But I am curious, is it really needed for remove the front V8 damper? I removed mine with a simple common 3-jaw puller and only minimal force was needed. Maybe I was just the lucky beneficiary of the stackup of tolerances. When I reinstalled it I just packed the crank snout with dry ice for few minutes and it slipped right on and after the temperature equilibrated it was snug.

OD, how do I tell the difference between casting and forging? I don't disagree with your description of removal, or need for this tool. After seeing it on E-bay, I remembered I had one! Seeing how much it went for was another eye-opener.

HH, I will check it tonight, but I don't think it is cracked, but thoses are the grinding marks left from taking out the bracing. It does look like the jaws, have been spread apart, due to someone using it on a larger diameter damper.

Fit puller to damper as usual. Use a large hose clamp around the outer diamter of the damper and the jaws.