Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I figure to change my trans fluid using the directions in the service manual, which is essentially to drain the converter first, then the rest of the trans.

Couple of questions:
1. Is this hard to do on a frame rack?
2. Is removing the lower front flywheel housing difficult?
3. Should the pan be removed, and, if so, what needs to be done there? What do I need besides a gasket?

Is this something a gas station should be able to do without undue heartaches?

Is there some other procedure that is better?

I'm filling it with snake oil, so we can avoid the many questions about which fluid.

If you have a 56 transmission, I would NOT let the Jiffy Lubes of this world put a wrench on the pan bolts. If they strip the threaded hole in the aluminum housing you will be very sorry you went there.

Agreed. I'm leaning to a local I trust where I can go in the shop and actively supervise. They are quite tolerant....

They do like it if I provide all the parts and am ready with correct procedures.

They are very careful when putting the car on a lift, which I appreciate. They just don't do a lot of old car work, which I also understand.

Sounded like a simple procedure that didn't need to be taken on a 70 mile round trip--and I still have to supply what is needed....

I was able to do mine with the car on four jack stands and myself wedged under the car. A lift or rack would make it SO much easier.

On a 56 you will not need to remove the lower bell housing as they provided a little trap door to get at the convertor drain plugs. Despite what the manual says, removing one of them is quite sufficient.

I would take down the pan so that it and the filter can be cleaned, so lay in a pan gasket.

If you are not towing or doing anything else to overheat the oil and the color is good then I would leave it alone.

The clutches are soaked with that oil and changing it will cause them to run a new environment.

I don't do that service anymore.

Is the transmisson causing some kind of a problem?????

Tim Cole above gives good advice.

If it's working ok then leave it alone!!!!!!!

If it's not working ok then what is the problem???? Changing fluid rarely fixes problems.

As a footnote IIRC the FILTER is serviced by cleaning it and putting it back in. However i do NOT make the footnote as any hedage against whether or not the filter needs to be cleaned. IT depends on history, how good or bad the fluid looks upon visual inspection (at end of dip stick) or trans malfunctions IF any.

Bottom line: if it ain't broke then don't fix it.

Trans, axle and radiator coolants are in a different environment than engine oil. Engine oil often needs to be changed. Not the others unless they exhibit some look or smell of contamination or other compromise.

Trans, axle and radiator coolants are in a different environment than engine oil. Engine oil often needs to be changed. Not the others unless they exhibit some look or smell of contamination or other compromise.

We've been through this before and I really have to disagree with respect to glycol-based anti-freezes. True, the anti-freeze property remains intact almost forever, but the anti-corrosion additive packages have a finite life which can vary by the type of anti-corrosive additives used and the conditions they are subject to. While the new "extended life" antifreezes are longer-lived, they still are not "forever", nor are they necessarily formulated to give maximum protection to older copper/solder radiators but are more aimed at modern aluminum systems. While the additives no doubt last longer in an engine that is dormant, for $20 or so, if you have a car that's driven, why take a chance? Change your antifreeze every 2-3 years and make sure you're using one intended for older vehicles.

Two things going through my head.

trans fluid age is unknown to me, but judging from other, wore visible signs of proper lubrication, probably old. So, IMHO, time to change.

Also, the car sometimes works to get into direct drive. Don't have the budget for a rebuild this year; if a change to new lube would help, or delay failure, that I can do. Leaning to refilling with B&M trickshift, FWIW....

Oh, Okay

Erratic performance is justification to consider a transmission service.

For the Ultramatic, I would also consider an external filter kit for the lube line (read cooler). Heavy duty light trucks use those with good results.

My modern car is rated life of the car for transmission oil except for towing and high temperature use like mountainous territory. It has a four speed with DD converter.