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Any reason I shouldn't use lithium w/ moly grease for all the grease fittings on the car? Normally I would use something like Lucas Red N' Tacky, but I have a new tube of moly loaded in my gun from another project. Switching is not a big deal, but it made me wonder if moly grease would hurt or help the joints on these old cars.

My understanding is that moly grease is even better than red grease. That being said, red grease will be perfectly fine where regular grease is specified; it's already much better than whatever they had back then.

If you do a search there are several lube related sites that have addressed this question. Here is a search I did on DuckDuckGo which came up with some sites with opinions. No idea if the link will work in a Google search or if it will come up the same or some different results but if you want to go to various oil and grease sites to read thru some of the forums you might be able to get a wider feel for the particular products you want to use. Moly concentration, included additives, and the type metal it is used on seem to be the main areas of concern. Bob is the Oil Guy is one site which has a forum with several strong opinions. Oil Guide Pro is a site which mentions some cautions.

Will leave to others lithium, tho' it must be better than the orange fiber grease in common use in the '40s into the '70s. Regarding that, either a Chevron or Exxon tech told my licensed auto/aero mechanic/machinist/pilot supercharged Cord-owning late friend that black molybdenum-graphite grease was an order of eight times better than the orange fiber stuff, and this was back in the early '80s.

Had these modern greases and full-synthetic 10W/30 motor oil been around in the '30s and '40s, many more cars would've survived.

Given the vastly better efficacy of modern grease, most old car folk we know figure a good chassis greasing, in which you see the newer grease just start to emerge, is good for many thousands of dry road miles over several years, just as oil changes every 2,000 miles a waste of money, especially if the engine not started and run in place for 15-20 minutes or driven a few miles around the neighborhood then allowed to sit for a month or six, but driven at last 18-20 miles highway to equalize temperature of block, head, manifold, and prevent the formation of bearing-eating carbonic acid, as well as sludge, varnish. Full synthetic oil is not panacea for laziness, anymore than modern grease a cure for sloth.

We do recall white lithium grease good for speedometer cables.