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I bought a 1950 Packard standard sedan. I just found out that the owner took off the head in 1984. The engine is stuck.
Has anyone been able to repair a stuck engine and what is the procedure. Or should I just junk it

Unsticking a Packard straight-8 engine is not a major thing but care needs to be taken to not damage anything. Otherwise it would need to be rebuilt but certainly not scrapped! I’ll let the experts chime in on the procedure but I know it was discussed at length in another thread so maybe use the search form below to find it as that form is more inclusive than the one at the top of the pages

If the head is off the condition of the cylinders can easily be determined. Very rusty will require an overbore, and that equates to a rebuild but still be careful when getting it to turn. Patience. Cover the tops of the pistons with marvel mystery oil and let it sit for a week. It may drain down and that's good, just keep it to the depth of at least half an inch. Some people use other solutions like a mix of ATF and Acetone but for me that's too harsh. After the motor sits you can try to turn it using the large bolt on the crankshaft pulley. Turn it a very small amount in one direction and then the other, working it back and forth in small distances, keeping oil in the cylinders and increasing the distance each time. Don't force it! You must be careful or a piston ring will be broken. Take your time and see what happens. It's worth the effort. You may be rewarded with an engine that will run for you.

Good Morning...Another point to consider is that if the engine will not turn, it can also be that a valve is stuck...take the covers off of the valve train and lube things there as well. Since the head is off...with the valve cover off, you can rotate and move the valves enough to know that they are loose or if you have one or two of them that are stuck as well...Ernie in Arizona

I have a 31 Standard 8 where I was able to rotate the crank bolt about 180 degrees before everything got stuck. Figured it was a valve. Per youtube advice I drained the oil, mixed up a 50/50 solution of diesel and ATF fluid, and filled the cylinders to the top. Most of the fluid will drain to the crankcase, and you will have to clean out the intake/exhaust manifolds as any open valves will collect the fluid. Situation solved, after two weeks I was able to turn it over. Obviously, make sure all the cylinders are devoid of fluid and keep the sparkplugs out when turning over by hand.

youtube.com/watch?v=_QqXKzS1JVU

That sounds like good ole rheumatism for the car engines ….. I know a guy that swore by sea foam engine cleaner … glad it worked 👍

I have been f___ing with one for months now. Got 50/50 ATF and acetone in the two cylinders with rings that won't let it past. Head is off. Nothing has budged it, from diesel to Marvel to penetrating oil.

They tell me, patience. I'm near the end of mine, and if I didn't have to much else to do, I'd buy a boat which was short one anchor.

Kidding . . . .

Good afternoon Wat...anything that you have that can create vibration...impact wrench...wrapped in a cloth...can make one hell of a differene...send Ross a private message I'll bet he gives you an idea or two...we once used a big old vibartion sander...the damn thing overheated...but it worked! Ernie in Arizona

If you’re going to rebuilt the engine anyway, pull it out and take it apart properly. If, on the other hand, you are trying to get it to run without taking it out and rebuilding, that will take work and perseverance which MIGHT be successful in the end but also might not.

I forgot which engine it is (the subject doesn’t mentioned it) but if a straight-8 and if the valves are still in it, by all means take them out (keeping them organized to go back into the same place) and once done, also take off the timing chain to see if the cam can turn.

The main thing is plenty of time and patience so just keep at it and don’t let frustration get in the way. There are two possible results: you’ll free it up and be able to get it running; you’ll free it up but find it needs a rebuild anyway.

Wat -- I would try taking a big wood dowel rod, put it down the problem cylinders, and lightly tap around the edges of the piston to try to create some micro-fissures in the corrosion. If that doesn't seem to move the ball, then I would clean it all out real good and dump Evaporust down the cylinders as a last resort prior to tearing it all apart.