Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi All,

I have a hopefully quick question while I try to sort out a lack of spark. If I have only a hot wire going from the battery hot to the coil, the main hot lead from the battery to the starter, and then the grounds for those associated parts, theoretically I should still get spark (assuming timing is also close) by using the button on the back of the starter solenoid to turn over the motor/starter right?

Essentially I’ve disconnected the oil sender, ignition/starter switch, horn relay, and the original hot lead to the coil (because it was frightening).

Yeah if you disconnect the ignition wire from the coil and connect a wire directly to the battery it should be fine. Remember to not leave it connected for too long (over 30 sec or so) without the engine running since if the points are closed the coil could overheat.

Starter either wire a remote switch or use a screwdriver lol

If the points are closed they are more likely to be overheating and burning or oxidizing than overheating the coil. One of the issues back in the day when ign switches only had an on/off position and no acc position was trying to listen to the radio. If the points were closed when the engine was stopped and the key turned on again to play the radio, after a length of time often the cars did not want to start again because the points had oxidized or burned and were unable to pass enough current for a decent spark. Maybe another reason so many pre 50s car radios were often not fed thru the ign switch but were fed directly from an always on source.

Thanks, yea I have the wire from the battery to coil on a switch. I’m hoping maybe these last couple of tries were suffering from too low battery from trial and error. Just about everything else’s has been disabled or replaced (coil, cap, wires, condenser, rotor, points). My new multimeter will arrive Wednesday which will help further if there’s no luck by then.

I assume you are using a spark tester? Or just watching a disconnected spark plug?

Hook it to the coil and test. If no spark, either coil or points is the problem. If that's fine but no spark after, probably the cap I would think.

You check the plug gaps?

Since the ignition switch in my 1954 Patrician has an issue and I've not had the time to take it back out to check, I start it that way all the time. No button on the solenoid-type that this year and model had so a screwdriver from power to the little terminal does the trick.

I’m just pulling the wire and looking for spark. Now that I have the new Belden plug wires they aren’t straight connect so I’ve been putting a spare plug in and laying it on the engine to watch for spark.

I plan to use the multimeter to test the coil and others tomorrow. I swapped the coil with a new one from Napa, but the new one is dented as usual with the way Napa handles their merchandise. I had an NOS condenser and points those were swapped in but again the meter will tell me if they were the problem or continue to be. I just can’t imagine that the starter would pull so much current and still turnover so reliably. Very much hoping next opportunity everything checks out justifying the charged battery swap (for the 8th time) and magically I have spark.

How much does the starter pull?
Excess current draw by the starter may prevent the ignition system from working during cranking.
This will be more likely if the battery is undersized, not fully charged, or is aged or otherwise impaired. A poor connection in the starter circuit, including any ground connection, will cause low voltage in the system during cranking, which could impair the ignition function.

Undersized battery cables will also cause many woes.

Yes, BigKev probably hit the nail on the head! You should be using at lease 0 gauge wire if not 00 and don't forget to do the same with the ground strap.