Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

what does everyone think about these i found. they don't exactly perfect, but maybe the will work??? and if they are out there...are there NOS ones, like from Max Merrit or something????

i see that bigkev got some of these, how did they work out??

thanks,

Hank

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talked to Max Merrit. they said there are no NOS and that they don't have any. so....what to doooooo....

These are generic 51-56 Packard/Clipper pans. They are made to bascially fit all the cars in the 51-56 line. They are not the same as the OEM floor. But should work with the modification. I have not installed mine get, just not at the body work stage yet.

from the Virtual Indian Motorcycle Journal.
And i quote:
"I mentioned this a couple of weeks ago, and waited to follow up on it after I
saw the product, but a local kid has me in complete utter awe at what he can
hand hammer form over a hard maple buck. This kid is amazing, also as a
welder. He just recreated a speedway tank for 2 of my racers and they are spot
on
perfect. And the cost will amaze you, you might even want to give him more.

Anyway

Alex Barrett
401 E. Fairgrounds
Jerseyville, Illinois 62052
618-498-3767

He has actually restored some of my faith that young people want to learn how
to do some of these special talents. I know I am going overboard but you all
shoulda been here when that new tank slid right in my speedway bike, had to
fit between the upper and bottom tubes, and line up with the 4 bottom bolts, it

ALL fit."

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Hank -

It is great seeing another V8 rescued and coming back to life; I can't wait to see the finish product, and I commend you on the effort that you have, and will continue to, put into this car.

Building upon what Keith said about panel-beating, you could be throwing the baby out with the bathwater by installing a full repair such as those pictured above. It might be that you only need a small patch formed. Also, I bet those panels don't come with any underbody reinforcements, which are more prone to rust.

Wait to make your decision until you can see exactly what is necessary.

i believe you have been reading my mind. the driver's floor is solid, but only a bit weak when i push on it, metal moves easy is all, but i am sure that is the case with others too. the passengers side has about a quarter sized hole and a less than penny sized hole. i was just wondering, considering the look of the surrounding metal, if they could patch that area. the surrounding area has alot of surface rust and not much floor protectant left. it is by far, and so far, the worst part i have come across on this super clean car.

i am glad i have stired some excitement on the board. i don't do much but watch tv every night, so i have a goal to work on the car at least 2-3 hours a night during the stripping phase. the front driver's fender is clean now, just the fender left. this weekend i will be moving to the other side, which should go easier since i learned a few things about the driver's side that will help me clue in to the other side.

i still can't figure out why the key will turn the lights on, etc....but when i turn it to start nothing happens...i beat on the starter a bit to see if it was stuck, but nothing....my wiring harness is beyond brittle so that might be it.

later,

Hank

Hank -

All sheetmetal will "move" to some degree - depending on thickness. (Watch how the inside door trim flexes when a power window reaches full stop in most cars.) That's why there are reinforcements welded to and/or ribs embossed in the stampings of most structural panels, but even those only hold up so far.

You might be in a better postion to decide how to proceed with rust repair once the car has been dipped. On the other hand, some guys like to scrape/sand/blast then repair such damage prior to dipping.

They key is to excise all the "diseased" steel; some of the metal adjacent to the obvious rust may have become brittle, as well. A hole the size of a quarter could opne up to a few square inches. Probing with a pocket sized flat-blade can often be quite telling.

Yet, before you go removing any metal, make sure to take enough good pictures, notes, and measurements so you (or your favorite body shop veteran) can fabricate a proper patch. With a MIG or TIG welders and some quality metal finishing work, no one will be able to tell there was a repair - even one exterior panels.

As for starter (or any other elelctrical problem), I'd be concerned about pushing your luck and wind up with a vehicle fire with the original harness in such bad shape. (Years of exposure to heat do take their toll.) You might do better to disconnect the starter dorm the harness and try wiring it up to a battery and jumpering the solenoid to check the starter. Download the shop manual electrical section from this site and review the wiring schematics.

Hank I have all the parts you will ever need for clip bee. I have tons of used sheet metal,mechanical parts and used yellow interior parts. IF interested call me at 330 685 6200. I have a 2tone blue 55clipper 75% restored for $6,000. also rolling frame and body from firewall back for $500. Don

Agree with BH about the wiring. If automatic, the original trans setup had a round mechanical sw on the steering column a few inches from firewall on engine side to prevent starting unless in P or N. Other set of contacts is for reverse light. If you have it, would check there and make sure everything OK and also make sure switch has both brown wires connected. Should be on term 3&4 but don't remember orientation. There is a small wire link connecting sw to the lever that goes to trans. Make sure it is there to work switch. If the brown wire is continuous and undamaged from the start terminal (one in center) on ign sw to solenoid, then there is a possibility either switch itself is bad. If a stick, then I believe straight from ign sw to solenoid.

Be VERY careful when working or pulling anything around the ign switch. It is held in by 2 prongs that twist into slots in the bezel. The bezel and slots is pot metal, very delicate, breaks easily, is getting hard to come by, and expensive.

Pac-Man.....i will let you know what i need when it comes down to it. so far i am just dissambling things, but i am making a list and when it comes time i will post and put out points to see who has what and for how much. the only interior piece that is missing are the kick panels on the driver's and passenger's side, but i think just about any good upholstery shop should beable to reproduce just fine. i just need to know what the material was and the pattern too.

HH.....don't you just hate it when you are like...duuuuuhh....wish i thought of that....you are RIGHT!!! the trans is not shifting, thinking it is just the linkage needs to be lubed. the lever shifts, but doesn't change gears. i know the switch you are talking about.....but i just need to get under the car annd move the drive shaft a bit while my wife tries to change gears. the previous owner says it can get stuck in park sometimes and that wiggling the drive shaft might help a bit. i have not gotten under the car to check things out yet, taken it slow. i know the T/L is not turning on either and the switch under the dash doesn't matter what position it is in.

thanks for all the advise everyone, i will be very careful. i don't plan on taking anything off the dash, no need to, just take the dash out and leave the stuff on. the dash will need to be repainted, but i don't plan on taking the pull knobs, etc... off if i don't have too. i know the ant. knob is loose, so i will have to look at that.

later,

Hank