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I picked up a gauge cluster from Ebay as my Speedometer wasn't working properly. It came with a clock and since mine was a little seized up I was thinking of putting that one in but I would rather know if it works before I put everything back together. The fuse is still good inline for the clock.
Any ideas on was to test the clock or would I just be able to bring the clock down to a local clock store that could see if it is working?

It is an electrically wound clock, ot an "electric clock" putting it to the correct voltage 6 or 12 just momentarily willenergize a magnetic coil that wil "wind" the clock to run 5-8 minutes as I recall. If this work,
then observe it to see if it runs the correct speed, if not clock needs cleaning. I used lighter flujid and a smll syringe. Then it needs oiling, I used a long pin adn 3 in 1 oil to oil the shaft pivot points, balance wheel most impt.

If it doesn;t wind, there is a set of points that is probably corrroded. Clean with metal nail file, the kind wit sparlky abrasive. MUST BE METAL, OTHER KIND LOSE GRIT WHICH GETS STUCK IN THE POINTS

Good luck, or take it to a clock shop

Stan, try to synchronize your clock with the atomic clock, but please don't readjust the atomic clock. Otherwise ...

To be perfectly accurate, go here:

tycho.usno.navy.mil/what.html

Quote:
Randy, Thanks I just adjusted my Rolex Oysterquartz to the exact second!

Its alive.

Some good information and was able to get some help from H.A.M.B forum too but took it apart and looked at it for a while. It is interesting that a part 60 years old can keep running. The clock has a points type connection that makes connection and charges the electromagnet and winds the clock with three little ratchet type teeth on the center mast, repeating this process over and over.
The clock took some moving for the movement and 3 in 1 oil and after running it through a few cycles manually it was able to run with out adding pressure to the rotating mass. One of the points were a little burnt so took some solder to reshape it and took it to my battery for a test. Makes contact and it rewinds itself it is fun to figure stuff out.
I have a manual wind watch that I used to pace the clock and it kept pretty good time made a slight adjustment. Fun Hobby long way to go going to get the housing replated before installing again. I was suprised that the pattern on the face of the gauge cluster is an insert.

In aprev post I had suggested to file the points f they were dirty etc. I see you have used solder to repair them.
The points are tungsten just like your distributor points, a very hard metal, solder is soft and melts at a low temp.
The solder points will work for a short while but will fail due to their incorrect properties.

Fred is right - you would have done better to dress the contacts with a point file. And aside - you can buy a point file from McMaster Carr.
Three-In-One oil is lousy - stop down at the local shop that sells material for the folks who sew their own and buy a small bottle of sewing machine oil - really good stuff.
OR go out on a limb and buy LIQUID BEARINGS off ebay - expensive but a very fine lubricant.

Thanks for the information on the oil product if the Solder won't hold up I have a spare clock that has better points. The reason I used solder is the outer point had a hole burnt into it. I wasn't aware that it was tungsten it looked like copper which is why I opted to fill the burnt off material with Solder.

I'll check out the lubricant and file.

Kano Lab has a light instrument oil they sell also. I also filed the contacts with a metal file. Clock works very well.