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I guess the last thing you want to see is a Packard vibration damper that does come apart in situ - but I'm guessing you've seen these before - this one from my spare 1934 engine and essentially the same back to 1932, perhaps earlier with the exception of dual timing marks which is unique to 1933/34 due to the dual ignition.

When you do get yours off I'd be quite interested in its assembly method and internal details.

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Is that a seam I see running down the middle of the outside of the unit? If so, this could be the parting line. Just a thought.

(o{}o)

My 1928 6 cyl engine is still awaiting installation following rebuild so I went to look at the vibration damper. I did not see any large screws that would attach the front part. I thought I saw one and scratched off the paint but there was no screw. I can only suspect that it was pulled off the shaft as an assembly.

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Hi JW, yes, there is a seam down the middle, but there isn't any hardware on the front of back joining the halves. I've taken all the paint off of mine in most areas with a wire wheel just to be sure someone didn't putty over the screws or something crazy.

Hi rrhorton, thanks for checking yours. That's 3-4 confirmed identical dampers on '28 sixes now without any hardware.

As stated earlier, I believe the way the 3 piece damper is held together is that the drive pulley sandwiches it between the inner hub's larger rear flange when bolted to the output shaft. In support of that theory, whoever rebuilt my motor placed two circular sheet metal shims between the pulley and the damper's front half to ensure the pulley, when bolted to the output shaft, was pressing hard against it.

I've left the assembly soaking in penetrating oil overnight and am going to try to separate the assembly one more time this evening with a sturdier puller. If that doesn't work, the motor is coming out this weekend.

Thanks to everyone for offering their observations and suggestions!

- Aaron

Hi All,

Just to add to the confusion, I have attached page 190 from the Service parts list for 1925 through 1929. It shows the damper (part #158783) as two "flywheels" implying that it does come apart somehow.

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Thanks jwogec! Is there anything related to the damper on the next page? Some of the pictured part numbers aren't cited. I assume the 526 is the same as the 626 (not a safe assumption though really), but in addition to the two flywheels, there should be a flange and hub listed since those two flywheels don't slide onto the output shaft directly (the opening diameters are clearly too large). p/n #158729, for instance, looks a likely candidate. I have motor #163870 fwiw. Thanks again!

Not a problem. Here is what the list calls out for the 443: two "Motor vibration damper flywheel", part numbers 147208 (second picture from right in bottom row), one "Motor vibration damper flywheel facing", part number 146998 (picture directly above the flywheel), six springs (small spring at top of picture),part number 148434, one Motor vibration damper hub (part number 158112) (second picture from left in middle row)and a key for the hub. Finally, it calls out a "Motor vibration damper hub sleeve" part number 158782 (right upper picture)

So, if you believe the Parts list for the 443 model, it is actually two flywheels with springs inside, a facing plate on the front, all mounted on a hub with a sleeve around it and a key that prevents it from slipping on the shaft.

I have a 1929 385 h.p. and I honestly havent looked at it that closely. It is covered with rust and I am still many moons from disassembling my engine, but to the best of my recollection, I don't remember it being composed of that many parts, but I would agree, there is definitely a groove between the two flywheels that may tease apart with some coaxing. The position of my engine presents with the exact problems cited by the other commenters. Unless that thing comes apart and the two pieces can be slid off the shaft in sequence, that riveted frame cross member is gonna require that you lift the engine. Please let me know what you figure out...I will be in the same predicament in the coming months.

They had several different styles prior to the screw together type.

As mentioned, inside there are friction surfaces that act against each other. When new they worked great. As they age they don't and the motors become harsh. The whole shebang is held together by a selective spacer under the pulley.

I have never seen service data on them and the only way to do them right is in a laboratory.

That's all I know. I had one case where I needed information and none was available, so I set the thing up as best as I could reckon. Other cars the units were still in one piece and I left well enough alone.

Pull the motor if you want to change the timing chain, and clean out the camshaft galley as well.

Thanks Tom. Forgive my ignorance, but could you explain what you mean by "selective spacer"?

All I want to do is change the timing cover gasket to fix an oil leak. With the exception of this damper, the cover is free and clear, but if the motor has to come out, so be it. That seems an awful lot of work to go through though, and I can't imagine that's what the engineers at Packard had in mind.

I've honestly thought it may be easier to simply pull the cover away as far as possible to prep the two surfaces, slide a gasket in, and bolt it back together. It would certainly work, but that cover is about the only part of my engine that's messy and poorly painted. I'd really like to get it off, cleaned thoroughly and resprayed.

You said the front crossmember is riveted to the frame rails. Is it possible to grind off the rivets and reassemble with bolts? Not original but any port in a storm as the saying goes.