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Wondering how similar your V8 damper is to mine

The V8 damper is quite different, the damper component is a weight ring inboard and vulcanized to the hub and the sheave or pulley is the outermost component. It presents a different set of circumstances as pulling from the inside edge of the metal ring risks breaking the vulcanization.

Have you looked at the pictures of the J2582 and J2636 vibration damper puller tools in the 1950 Kent-Moore tool catalog? That catalog is on this site, perhaps they'd give you some ideas to improvise.

For better or worse, here's a terrible shot of the device the mechanic devised to pull the damper from my 356. I believe it's a 2 prong puller with the prongs removed and then welded back on to the body using some steel rod stock. Since the arms are now fixed at the correct distance and orientation, it works very well.

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When in doubt, go bigger.

This 7-ton reversible puller brand "EverTough" sourced at my local O'Reilly's through their Tool Loan program worked perfectly.

Spread of this puller was 7", which is what was needed. Only ended up using two jaws which hooked right inside the rounded edge and wedged just right.

Puller came off with astounding ease. You know the cars from the '60s with "over-powered steering" that allows you to turn the wheel with a pinky? Yeah, like that. Didn't even break a sweat. Such a difference compared to pulling off my MoPar dampers. Those things were on ridiculously tight compared to this.

Interesting that the keyway key came out IN the damper. Mite try re-installing the damper with the key left in position like that unless others advise me against it.

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19482255: Glad that puller worked for you on your 1948. It works only marginally if at all on 1955/56.

You're right, bigger is better when it comes to pullers whether they be for front harmonic engine balancers or rear drums.

Craig

Just wondering why did you take the Damper off? If anything this is a good time to look at the timing chain and pull the water pump off and pull the water tubes out and flush out the cooling system.
Just curious.
Wes

Yes, you're right, this is a good time to do all of that. I have already pulled out and cleaned the brass coolant distribution tube which is in good condition. Noticed a few of the forward holes in the tube closest to #1, 2 and 3 cylinders have oversize distributing holes compared to the others - maybe on purpose?

Does anyone know if the 356 has a threaded drain plug for draining the cooling jackets anywhere? If I have to remove the freeze plugs for this, then I'll probably wait.

I pulled the damper off because I have at least two hydraulic lifter bodies that have cracked/broken feet. Who knows how they got that way: perhaps the lifters stuck at some point. Pulling the cam out to address this issue. While I'm doing that, I'll examine the timing chain for slack. Seems like it has some.

Does anyone happen to know offhand what size socket/open-end wrench fits the camshaft gear retaining nut? It's bigger than 1 1/4" but smaller than 1 3/4" - maybe 1 1/2"? My mics are on the blink right now.

Sorry I don't about the size your asking, but I did read somewhere that the Cam Followers could be broken if too strong of a spring was used on the valves. Just throwing that out for food for thought.
Wes

Yes, there is a water jacket drain plug, though it's a small diameter and while useful for draining coolant not so much so for getting debris out. Driver's side, lower edge of the water jacket, just above the dipstick opening.

Don't recall the 356 water distribution tube in particular but it's common for the hole size to change along it's length. As the very far end has less available water pressure (and available volume) I'd think the smaller holes are towards the front but someone will come along and correct me if I'm wrong.

An engine block drain is located in the back of the block near the starter, just above it. It will either have a plug or a cock. You may want to cover the starter or divert the drain fluid so as to protect the starter.

(o{}o)

Perfect! Thanks for the heads up on that. Now all I need to do is get a socket or wrench big enough to turn that nut off the end of the cam. This will be the second fastener on this car bigger than any tool I have to work with it. I'm sure it won't be the last.

A few days ago, I got really curious: anyone know how the factory installed harmonic dampers on these engines originally? Was there some big machine that pressed them on? The thought of such machinery really got me interested, especially considering the tricks we employ now to help with the task (like your suggestion of dry ice packing on the crank snout Dave).