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I had already ordered them.. but yea I probably should have got extra.. I’ll post when I get them

Was able to do 3 angle cut on exhaust but I don’t have a 20 degree for top of the 30 degree on the intakes..can intakes just be cut to 30 degrees and maybe use a 45 for throat cut?

45 deg will work for the throat. Hopefully the sealing surface wont go all the way to the valve edge. Do you have carbide cutters or stones. You can re-dress one of the stones to 15 or 20 Deg for top cut. PB

Have cutters…I can see the angles and cuts on existing exhaust seats but it appears the intakes are just a single 30… I did one exhaust came out nice..but now I have 0 lash… so I assume I now have to grind a tad off valve stem base ? The valves were also refaced and I have no valve history with car….

Try adjusting the tappet forest, but yes, you may have to take just a little off of the stem too. Pictures please!

Ok…I didn’t realize how much more adjustment I had in tappets… so I have proper lash..so I have cut some of the exhausts and lapped them ..I can see a nice grey line in proper place but can’t tell if they are truly sealed..I’ve tried Prussia blue…but that is hard for me to see…I’ve been using the red dye on seat then lapping to see if it removes the red in all places ..I’m pretty close I think..I can’t do a leak down the way the valves are angled in seat..liquids just runs away…and don’t have any idea how I could test with air..I will attach photos…I cut new 45..then 30 then 60 then lapping..

All the Packard engines I’ve rebuilt, I never noticed multiple angles on the valve seats but I typically have them ground by a shop so never paid attention. Anyway, I’ve lost track of which engine this is after you started a new tread about the work. Which is it?

Sorry bout that Don…41 6cyl 110…..

I believe from the factory the seats were just one angle. 45 for exhaust, 30 for intake. At least that's what it looks like on my parts engine.

Pretty sure most modern seats are cut at three, and even five angle.

Jimmy, I'm not an expert at all, but what you've done looks good to me. Someone with more experience should be able to chime in here.

Based on your pic, Jim, looks good. As long as the seal is not on the edge of the valve. Seal width looks good also. Years ago, from the factory, the valves would be ground to angle and seats were ground one degree more to keep the seal from consuming the entire valve face. Just that one degree of interference was enough. A 3 angle or better yet 5 angle valve job with back cut on top of valve really makes a difference in engine breathability.
A 3 angle seat job is satisfactory without doing a complete port and polish job. If you're working with a valve grinding machine, it should have ability for you to grind the tops of the valve stems. The grinding provides little grooves in the stem for oil retention which will help with wear, and hence, less frequent valve adjustments. Just dress them up, you should have enough tappet adjustment for proper setting. When you have the valve train re-assembled, and cyl. head still off, give the engine a "static" valve adjustment. Starting with #1 cyl at top dead center, adjust valves in firing order..1-5-3-6-2-4. That way, once cyl #1 is @ TDC you wont have to turn the engine by hand but a little bit to bring the next cyl. in firing order to TDC for adjustment. Remember "light drag" on feeler gauge AFTER lock nut is tightened. After engine is completely assembled, head torqued, warm up engine and check valve adjustments. re-adjust as necessary. After this valve adjusment is complete and engine is cooled down from initial warm up, TORQUE cyl head AGAIN. If all is well, take car for a drive..20 min. to half/hour, and retorque cyl head a 3rd time. PB