Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Quote:

I'm chiming in a little late here but...
The new fuel blends definitely have an effect on older parts. See how it shrunk the cup seal on my accelerator pump plunger? I rebuilt my carb and it ran great for about 3 days then wouldn't start. A quick inspection revealed the accelerator pump wasn't pumping. These blended fuels will do that to your old parts. If its not to late, you might want to rebuild your carb yourself. If it was working fine, except for the leaks the new gaskets is what it most likely needs. The 4GC carbs are very simple. Take it apart, match the old gaskets to the new ones and re-assemble. Fortunately, where I live, there are 2 gas stations that sell non-blended gas. It cost more but the car runs so much better and I think the extra mpg's pay for it.
Brian

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Historically the accelerator pump plunger seals were leather but some years back a polymeric material found favor and was used by most of the rebuild kit makers. But now with our ethanol-laden gasoline, leather is again the preferred material. The leather can last quite a long time, the pump plunger in my Stromberg EE-22 was installed perhaps 35 years ago and is still pumping a fairly strong stream.

Owen,

Are the leather plungers commercially available for a 4GC rebuild? Would that be something that a customer would have to make a specific request for? Blended fuels are so common here in Arizona this time of year.

Go over to AACA website and look up CarbKing. Let us know.

Kevin: The last several kits I've bought in the last feew years all had leather plunger seals w/o any special request. The very best kits IMO are those sold by Daytona Parts down in FL, I'd be confident that whatever they supply is thoroughly satisfactory - they're tops in the business. You could give them a phone call.

Dear Kevin:

Whatever you do, do not overtighten carburetor and fuel pump screws. That will distort the castings. Leaks are caused by either too high float level, rough running, broken gaskets, corroded or distorted castings. If your problem is due to distorted castings then Permatex 1B sealer can be sparingly used as it is highly gas resistent. It is also fantastic for sealing leaky main jet plugs.

Now in the absence of a torque limiting screw driver, when tightening carburetor castings lightly grip the screwdriver and tighten unitl the lockwasher is compressed then continue until your palm begins to slip but no more than say 1/8 turn or until you see the gasket is compressed.

Over the years I've seen a lot of good merchandise ruined by overtightening.

As for you leaks, from the pictures it looks as though you may have leaking well plugs. This can be fixed using a good two part epoxy.

Good luck with your car.

Just an update. The Rochester on my '55 400 is still being problematic and being 'sloppy'. The carb leaks a bit of fuel at different times and it really messes up the carb intake. I tightened things but think that it's just time to let a real professional firm rebuild things. Daytona parts comes well recommended so I sent off a 7007230 that I had on the shelf for the FULL rebuild. I'll post pics upon it's return.

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Excellent choice - Daytona is a first-class outfit.
Looking forward to pics.

i wait with anticipation!

You can be certain Daytona will make it like new. Please share with the group Daytona's current remanufactured cost.

Another factor is the rising shipping costs. An old iron base Rochester or Carter is HEAVY. Round trip diagonally across the country is getting to be about what I used to charge to rebuild a carb.

Fortunately, we've still got a carb shop here in Spokane which is good enough for the girls I go with.

jack vines