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There's one on eBay right now.

A couple of projects today.

I replaced the wallowing out brake adjustment eccentric in the rear drum and then finally was able to get that adjuster to lock down.

While I was under the car I figured I would recheck the front brakes. They both needed several clicks of tightening. Interesting. Probably now that the shoes have bedded and the high spots were worn down on the shoes, then needed some tightening up. It made a huge difference. The pedal feel is much better with less pedal distance. I can now lock up all four wheels if I try. So note for next time I replace shoes, recheck them after driving a bit, as they made needed a bit more tightening.

Also the parking brake will now hold car on a hill from rolling backwards.

Also another project I did was add an underdash light. There was an underdash light in a box of parts that came with the car. Not sure what it came off of, but it had a 6v bulb in it. So I swapped it with a 12v bulb and repaired the frayed socket wiring. I hooked it to the same side of the switch as the reading/map light, so it comes on with the map light. It should help light up the interior at night when needed.

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I think it's normal for new brake lining to wear in fairly rapidly and need an adjustment after a hundred miles or so, maybe less in stop and go.

Afterward, I'd expect the adjustment to hold for a good while, if the adjuster mechanisms are staying put.

Once the linings achieve a full contact on application, they should hold their adjustment. I like a "high" pedal, and I believe that a high pedal and short pedal travel reduce wear on cups and brake hardware to a minimum, so long as drag is avoided.

The under dash light is a good idea, especially in a convertible with no dome light.

Apparently I was in the 37 parking only section!

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A few parts showed up today. A better Clock Delete Plate that hasn't faded out like the one I currently have.

A set of door armrests as my car was missing them. They have good cores which are still soft, they just need to be recovered.

And finally, a set of hood louvers. They should hopefully clean up well and will be good until I can send them for re-chrome at some point.

Just a thought Kev, I have a book titled "The Production Packard 1935-1937 A Restoration Reference" by Dar Kuehl.
He makes a good point that the louvers are not only very difficult to get all the pits out of, but are very brittle and may very well break apart in the preparation stage of plating. Sub-text alludes to 'if it ain't broke don't fix it".
I found that mine, although all original and show pits, cleaned up quite nicely and with a coat of black paint on the inside look very nice on the hood. There is something to have the original 'magic' of 1937 nickel on your car. No one who has looked at the car has even commented on the pits, only how beautiful the 4 side louvers look and accent the beautiful art deco style of the car as a whole. Just in case you are wavering between original and re-plating.
Bob J.

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We will see how these clean up. They are currently sitting in a tub of evapo-rust.

Wonder if anyone has tried the chrome powder coat on something fragile like those louvers that might not stand as much grinding or buffing actual plating would need. I know the powder would not match actual plating but with an isolated piece and some of the newer formulations could it compare more favorably than leaving a poor quality piece in position.

They are a thin metal stamping. Too bad they were not made from stainless.