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yeah tell me about it. fuel pump is stock rebuilt. nothing more.

fuel filter is stock.

needle and seat are brand new from the daytona kit. not even a needle actually...its this rubber disc thing. hard to explain, but supposed to be better according to them.

confused me and my father in law too...how is gas leaking from there if it never gets to that height.

I probably can't add anything you haven't already though about, except to ask if you set both the float level AND the float drop? The float drop is important to keeping the needle and seat in position when you invert the cover to reassemble the carburetor. I can say that I've used dozens of the Daytona needle/seat assemblies or "float valves" and never experienced any problem with any of them. For others not familiar with the construction, here's a picture courtesy of Daytona's installation literature.

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And the only other thing might be a speck of crud that was in the system past the filter found it's way to the valve.

That valve design is interesting in their claim it outlasts the needle valves. Maybe so but air and vacuum solenoids we used in some medical equipment had the same principle. We sure went thru a lot of those -- although the discs were probably of different material. They would develop a depressed ring where the metal met. Once that happened air would leak thru.

you are right HH....i took one out to look...it had the depression...whether it causes problems is unknown.

we set the float drop and level. did it with my father in law. two sets of eyes. matched the SM perfectly.

the only other thing i can think of is the little lead plug on the fuel inlet that is right next to where i circled is actually the culprit and is leaking. it follows the path of the fuel into the carb.

I would ask if the float level and drop specs provided by Daytona for use with this disc type valve, which I've no experience with, are the same as what's in the factory service lit. However, that question is kinda moot since you already removed the sight plugs and found the bowl level to be fine.

It's entirely possible that your leak might back track to a welch plug. However, you'll need either really good eyes or some kind of color-contrasting dye to trace it.

in the 70s i bought the daytona at a parts store, i had problems with the drop, the one piece would fall out. or get cocked.

i went back to regular needle.

good to know.

i put some RTV on the two pan bolts that are leaking on my trans and laid a bunch of white paper towels under it....so far, clean towels after 8 hours.

checked the float inspection holes last night, so far both floats still floating and fuel level at the bottom of the inspection hole with no loss of gas when i removed the plug.

so, narrowing down the slow fuel leak. i j/b welded the little lead plug, see pic, and we will see if it still leaks. if so it is possible its from the atmospheric relief valve. at which point i may just put the old carb top i have on this carb as it doesn't have the valve at all.

checked my pan bolts last night. one is still barely seeping. i may just live with it, or take that bolt back out and try rtv one more time.

i took the carb off the car, gonna go through the book settings one at at time and in order again before i put it back on.

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J/B weld to the rescue. no more gas leaking at that spot.

rechecked all the carb settings. still don't know if I got it set right...I think it needs a much finer ear then mine. I was able to get it to 6 degrees BTDC on the timing and then I adjusted the screws on the front of the carb till I thought it idled better. maybe my idle is too high, not sure, need to put on a tach to check. but as is it starts and I bet it would run half assed if it were a complete car.

didn't overheat this time and have fluid flying out the radiator. head gasket coolant leak is very minimal now. and I still got a very slow drip from that one pan bolt on the trans.

rear seal seems to not want to seal...damn rope. hopefully its not hosed or something or just needs to swell more.

here are a few pictures to look at and a video of what I have the car set at right now. maybe Ross or someone can comment about the way it sounds, etc.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rhRguKqM47w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

thanks,

Hank

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Sounds like my Packard Hank. Good repair to the leaky carburetor. You are definately heading down the right road.