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Compare these to the old points and see if they are bent.

New Points are readily available over the counter at your local parts place.

Are you saying that you are using New Restored Old Stock? I would suggest that authenticity is fine but I would attempt that after the car was running. I'd buy new until then.

1951 Point Gap is .017 inches.

Sometimes NORS is still on a shelf as it was defective or a return back then. Points is points, and new fresh stock is available.

It's not uncommon for brand-new points to be misaligned - even OE service replacements. Yet, the contacts must be parallel and centered; else, you'll never be able to set gap correctly.

To align the contacts, you can tweak the stationary contact bracket, but NEVER bend the breaker arm (lever).

A special tool used to be available, industry-wide, to aid in accomplishing this, but it became obsolete as electronic ignition systems displaced point type systems in late model vehicles.

N.C.23rd Packard, you and I have had this discussion before about aligning points. This picture from Glenn's. One point face is flat the other slightly convex. You bend the stationary point until the center of the convex point is centered on the flat point. Otherwise any point gap measurement is of dubious value.

The 2nd photo shows measuring the spring tension on the moveable point arm. This only pertains to point sets that are not sold as preassembled units.

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Yeah I know the point gap spec was mentioned somewhere a while back. Be patient with me, my Glenn's Auto AND Chiltons manuals are in the mail. Then maybe I can help to answer some questions (by looking stuff up)instead of just asking them. On the old points it was the arm that rides on the cam that was bent, about 3/8 of an inch back from the end. the "base" or stationary one does not at all look like it lends itself to being bent. On the up side I found the "real" parts store (useless ass NAPA dudes!)today and not only do the have a machine shop attached, and all kinds of racing goodies, but their parts books go back to 1927. Also they had the (I think it is the right stuff) "EP" gear oil that Owen was talking about the other day. Is it normally $17 per quart!?

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No wonder Pertronix is doing so well (my dad even has one in his 99% original '66 Charger) I can just imagine how much fun this would be by flashlight on the side of the highway! lol!

Is this the right stuff for my rear-end, steering box, trans?

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That gear oil is fine, it's about 3 times the price of the traditional stuff because you chose a synthetic. But since you're changing from a mineral gear oil to a synthetic, I'd drain all the old stuff and then refill. You can check the specs yourself but I think a complete refill take 4 pints.

Perhaps you got a bad set of points, ask them for a replacement set. As to points, look at it a skill to be learned and passed on to the next generation. Besides, the 6-volt positive ground Pertronix have a somewhat cloudy reputation for reliability.

It's good news that you found a parts store with a good counterman willing to lookup stuff for you. Around me NAPA is terrific, AutoZone is worst than useless - all depends on the personalities and their attitude towards customers.

Sorry, I have been looking and still can't find what that gap was for the points, I will write it in the front of the manual i have this time.

When I drain it (after I get this beast running) am I supposed flush it with kerosene? If so does that mean run it around the block like that or just let some run thru there and drain out the bottom?