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A couple of thoughts,

I have had trouble with those low cost compression testers in that if you crank it with the starter it may trap a reading but if you try by hand you won't trap a reading. (I worked with model T Fords and they have a crank in front). The Schrader valves always leak and the rubber thing you stick in the sparkplug hole always leak.

I admittedly haven't had a Packard motor apart but I would think the piston is probably centered below the sparkplug. You should be able to shine a flashlight down through the hole and see the piston move or at least the side of the bore. The soda straw should get to the top of the piston and you should be able to feel around with it. I don't stick screwdrivers in a sparkplug holes just in case it gets jammed.

I don't know how heavy the valve springs are on Packard motors but I have had them stick many a time on older motors. If the car has been parked for a long tome there can be a little surface rust on a valve stem or gummy dried up oil. It can run but a valve can stick in an open position. I use a little spray oil which may be blown in through the spark plug hole or if you have the manifolds off or through the valve cover. Valves don't get a lot of oil but once you get things moving they will usually loosen up.

With the plugs out get some to crank the starter and try the compression tester a hole at a time, I don't use my finger however. If you have a stuck open intake it will blow back through the carburetor and you won't get it to start.

Jim

I thought that the pistons were under the plug too, like on a SBC, but it is the intake valve on these. I take the screw driver out before I turn it over, (gona use the straw trick next time tho and leave it in) Also the rubber bottom kind of compression testers DO suck (I used to have one)as they always leak, that is way I bought the kind with all the spark plug threads that screw in to the plug hole and have an O-ring to stop leaks. I have had the valves stuck and un-stuck 6 times today and I STILL have to hammer them down with a wood dowl, so just "working them loose" is a distant memory. No, I am afraid that there are still plenty scraped and cuss words in my future yet still. Thanks anyways tho! Steve

Tim, thanks! JD was good enough to point me towards this
ebay.com/itm/Sunnen-goodson-regis-flat-h ... e_Tools&hash=item3a797d4f3f&vxp=mtr

I too think a good clean and shine should do the trick. I was thinking that for the valve guide that a gun barrel brush of the right caliber will be the ticket, as they are designed for use with solvents, and for cleaning metal without scratching it. Thanks Tim and JD in KC, for my manifolds get to stay put now and for that I am grateful! Everyone else too that has chimed in so far, thanks!

Stuck valves...YAAAY! Waiting on my new (to me) valve spring compressor. Don't forget the MMO fellas, this IS NOT what I would call fun.

Me again

If you have confirmed stuck valves and if you have the valve cover off so you can see the valve springs, I would probably take some spray oil and lube up the valve stems and see if I could work them loose maybe with a pair of pliers when the valve is off the seat.

Maybe you can loosen them up by running the starter and work on the most stuck valve stems, but oil all of them.

I don't use WD-40 for oil because it sets up and leaves a film and can seize a tight fit.

Once you get the motor warmed up and run it a little I would expect everything to loosen up and this not be a continuing issue.

When you tap on valves go gentle don't bend a stem and if you are removing valve springs watch those keepers you don't want any small parts going down in the engine or getting lost.

I learned to never hit anything with a hammer, never use an easy-out, and always put all parts back exactly where you got them. I also learned when you take things apart to take pictures, put hardware in sandwich bags and label where it came from.

I learned all this the hard way.

Jim

When you are finished with that valve spring compressor, would you consider selling/renting/loaning it?

Here ya go Joey! Hope this helps. Look around as I heard one fellow tell me that he picked one up for only $3! Mine was $20 and still very worth it!
ebay.com/itm/vintage-GM-CHEVY-antique-au ... ssories&hash=item564be4eaca&vxp=mtr

ebay.com/itm/Early-Vtg-Valve-spring-Comp ... e_Tools&hash=item3f1c3f5659&vxp=mtr

ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sunnen-Products-Fla ... DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d535ada5

That last one is only $.99 with $5.95 shipping and is the same maker as the one I just bought. Hope this helps, you will be the first kid on your block to have one! Steve

The last one is the same Sunnen model (EL-100, made right here in Missouri) that I use. Works very well on Packard flatheads. However, I would be concerned about the condition of that one.

Here's the one I use:

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Opps, hadn't looked that close. What about the other two, will they work for him? Mine shows as shipped now soo any day now!

What concerns you about that one? The welded repairs?