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You don't have to separate them if you weren't having any sealing issues, just easier to do the extra work now instead of later if you have a hot spot leak or manifold leak due to no straight manifolds. I'm not sure what they were from the factory, but two different colors looks nice, but doesn't really matter at all. Use a pretty high temp paint as the manifold will burn off normal paints quickly. I think the intake manifold was engine color? Mine showed signs of gray.

I don't have a pic of the manifold handy, but it looked like a "Street L" brass t, and the female side of it took a male flare fitting, like a brake line. You could use vacuum line if you're not caring about looks or originality. It seems later, that elbow runs into a port below the main carb section that our manifolds don't have. I also had a big blocked off port in the rear of my intake manifold also. It had a big pipe plug in it.

Wait, i found a pic that should help you visualize, from a thread where we discussed fuel pump and vacuum pump line routing.

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I was just checking exhaust manifold colour myself last week on packardinfo. The colour apparently is close to an Eastwood's Hi Temp paint: 'Stainless Steel Grey'.

Eastwood forum

There are a couple of mentions of it here on packardinfo so I guess it's good stuff. No personal experience of it myself (yet).

51Packard, be careful when re-installing the water pump. The bolts are different lengths and a bolt that is too long can cause serious damage. Use some Permatex sealing on the threads that screw into a water jacket. Match the bolts to the holes. I can recommend Eastwoods exhaust manifold paint. I prefer the stainless steel color as it looks like new cast iron gray after going through a few heat cycles.

(o{I}o)

Thanks guys. I put a straight edge up to the manifold and everything was lined up except a slight gap at the two center ports. Looks like I may have to loosen the manifolds before reattaching. I'm hoping to avoid having to have it milled.

I haven't needed anything from Eastwood so I just got some cast iron gray paint. Not sure how it compares to the Eastwood, but "good enough" for me I think. Certainly looks worlds better than it did before.

I primed it with 1200 degree ceramic primer and then top coated with the 500 degree cast iron engine enamel.

JW, funny you should mention the water pump. I did notice that some of the bolts were different lengths (unfortunately too late). I think I put them back in the holes (for safe keeping) in the right places, but I'm not sure. I was going to mention that when I was ready to reinstall after I research in the manual if it tells me where the longer bolts go.

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51,

Here are the rest of the trunk trough curve photographs. You should be able to see the curve decrease in width (I forgot to measure) as it goes under the taillight mounts.

"X" shows end of narrow trough as it meets floor and inner fender wall. Will go back over tomorrow and use calipers to give you correct distance.

Again, I apologize over the delay in getting these to you.

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Gray dusty looking stuff on inner fender and floor is the flocking I was wondering about.

Thanks for the pics! Reproducing that channel is going to be pretty tough for me. A lot more welding is in my future!

1 The fitting that goes in the manifold is a standard brass fitting, any good auto store should have them. Weatherhead brand is what they sell around here but there are other good brands.

2 Dont worry too much about the groove in the trunk unless you are going for a show quality restoration. They make a lot of meaningless dips and dives. Some of the grooves are to stiffen the metal. If you leave a few out it wont make any difference.

fyi. i believe you can get 2000 degree engine enamel now. incase your 500 doesn't hold up....although i'm sure it will.

Hank

51Packard, you will want to use copper washers under the water pump bolts. Now would be a good time to clean-up the threads in the block too.

(o{I}o)