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There was another discussion on the engine core plugs. Jack Vines mentioned the size.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=27283#forumpost27283

Replacement core plugs are standard Dorman catalog items, any good parts store or engine rebuilder should be able to easily provide them.

for those that care:

the dorman part numbers for 1 49/64" freeze plugs are as follows

555-036 steel
565-036 brass

question is.....what type to use?

the steel is only .79 cents. brass is 2.99

here is link to the steel.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR1/555036.oap?ck=Search_555-036_-1_2152&keyword=555-036

here are the part numbers for the freeze plug on the water pump housing:

555-093 steel
565-093 brass

steel is .59 cents brass is 1.99

here is the link to the steel ones:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR1/555093.oap?ck=Search_555-093_-1_2152&keyword=555-093

once i confirm these work i will add them to the x-ref section.

Hank

question is.....what type to use?

Thanks for researching the Dorman numbers. The knee-jerk reaction to your question would seem to be to use brass due to it's better resistance to corrosion. My only experience which may or many not be relevant is that when I rebuilt my 34 Eight I replaced the core plugs with brass. Within about 1 year several of them began to weep and I removed them all and replaced them with steel. No problems since and it's been about 10 years or so since I changed them. Installation technique was the same both times - perhaps a different technique with the brass would have led to a different result. I used hardening Aviation Permatex and the professional tool to expand them. Note the 34 plugs are disc type, not cup type. My guess is that the brass "relaxed" with time.

i think what i may do is use the steel and paint the backside with a rust inhibitor. that should work i would think.

Hank

Isn't there something about the "rust" actually forming a beneficial seal coming into play as well. I remember many years ago when some plumbing work was done using galvanized pipe. There was a tiny drip afterwards which I pointed out to the plumber. He said not to worry as the pipe would seal and sure enough, by the next day it had and still is. I would think with brass that could not happen between the two different metals and the different expansion characteristics would also work against long term.

i plan to use loctite 518 to seal the edge of the plug. it is a gooey substance and it doesn't really harden. i used it on my boat when i rebuilt the pumps. it helps keep out water.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Loctite/Product-Line/Loctite-518-Anaerobic-Gasket-Maker/?autoview=sku

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now on to the thermastat.....anyone found an over the counter version? i'm about to look, but thought surely someone knows of one that fits from autozone or such.

edit...

autzone has them in three different temp ranges.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Thermostat/_/N-8gctr?filterByKeyWord=thermostat&fromString=search

O'Reilly is 1 dollar cheaper.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MCT0/15358.oap?ck=Search_15358_-1_2152&keyword=15358

i think i may go with the 180 temp, vs the 192...just cause of the Texas heat we get.

thanks,

Hank

Henry, here is the one I used. I prefer it because it will stay open when it fails unlike others that close when they fail.

(o{I}o)

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back to that heater hose connector.

i found a replacement.

i measured the old one it is 5/8" x 3/8" NPT. see pictures.

link to replacementhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-AutoGrade-5-8-in-hose-to-3-8-in-NPT-1-1-2-in-long-metal-heater-hose-nipple-connector/_/N-26a0?counter=12&filterByKeyWord=hose+connector&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=895409_0_0_ from autozone. O'Reilly was more money and not in stock.

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