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If you remove it, then you have no choke-like function.

So the SU either had that Aux Carb or had a manual choke mechanism, which adjusted the main jet to pour in more fuel.

I understand removing the auxiliary starter carburetor would leave you with no choke function. Just wondering how critical it is and how the cold engine would operate with out the aux carb.

Enjoying very much your journey with this project. Thanks for sharing.

Before I pulled the carbs off to rebuild, if I turned the AUX off before the engine was warmed up, it would sputter and die. Also very hard to start without it.

Okay, you have run the experiment and now have the results to act upon. Aux carb is needed.

How to turn a 37 sedan handle which are fairly common into a 37 convertible handle, which are much more scarce.

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The right side (locking) handle on the car was junk and the cylinder was fused.

So Flackmaster was kind enough to forward a good sedan to me. I took it to a locksmith who picked the lock and removed the cylinder for me ($15). I then filed down the tumblers on that old cylinder to fit my ignition key, and reinstalled the cylinder. After trimming down the length of the sedan handle shaft to match the length of the convertible handle, I now have a working and locking passenger door.

Second HD6 Carb and the Auxiliary Starting Carb, which shares its fuel bowl, are done. Just need to marry them back together and make any adjustments to the length of the throttle shafts.

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Carbs reinstalled and linkage geometry reworked.

Out for an extended test drive. It drove remarkably better! Nicole had it up to 50mph at one point.

Some pictures to go with last night's project work.

This is what the finished carbs look like. I need to fit the air intake and filter back on. I drove it last night without those in place, as I didn't know if I would have to make adjustments on the fly.

Also, ignore the scrapped-together throttle linkage. This was to test the proof of concept on the new geometry. Extending the throttle level crank arm made a world of difference. Now it doesn't go from nothing to WOT with barely any pedal movement. I just used a piece of metal strapping and drilled a 5/16" hole in it to slip over the throttle shaft and then a smaller hole to bolt through the eye of the existing crank arm. This allowed me to extend it out another couple of inches. So with that appearing to work pretty well, I can now source or make real linkage and replace the metal strapping and baling wire currently in place. The wire can be replaced with some adjustable rod with spherical ends. I've seen some longer crank arms, but they look too "resto-rod" chunky. So I think I can fab up something a bit more plain from the aluminum flat bar stock I already have.

Also, here is an angle that is not seen very often, as it is usually pushed up against stuff in the garage. This is at my in-law's place when we were out driving.

Lastly, my niece, nephew, and friend checked out the rumble seat. They got a ride around the block in it.

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Looks like it's running rather well. Glad you were able to get the carbs sorted out. How does the Jag motor feel compared to Packard's? Do you notice a difference in torque and HP?

-Kevin